View Full Version : Battery Relocation!!
GASPORTS4EVR
June 27th, 2004, 22:38
I am relocating my battery to the bed on my 97 GMC. After ditching the fender aprons and side core supports, having the battery up front just didn't work. Where is a good place to get lengths of heavy gage Pos/Neg cable, maybe by the foot? Or is their a cool kit out there including a box? Back When I built my Yota, someone gave me some extra cable, and I just bought a plastic battery box from Pep Boys.. Thanks to all, Gas Sports For Life!!!
Chris
ACID_RAIN28
June 27th, 2004, 22:46
Any Stereo shop or Home Depot
Brian Mapes
June 27th, 2004, 22:51
I think kartek sells a kit.
KitRacer
June 27th, 2004, 23:07
I used welding cable from West Air. I think it costs $0.60-$1.00 per foot. I used number six last time and it worked good. I tried using a three wire extension cord for a temperary fix, but it didnt work well. One other thing i did, was run the wire up into the glove box and mounted one of those $25 keyed switches in the back. Thiefs would never know without opening up the glove box that the wires dont just run from the battery to the starter.....
ntsqd
June 27th, 2004, 23:16
Nearly anything you could ever need is here: Waytek Wire (http://www.waytekwire.com/) or here: Del City (https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=Home)
You can also find some stuff here: West Marine Electrical (http://www.westmarine.com/electrical.html)
Note that this type (http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L081DF04D3C655370BB00C12+M37+ENG ) of terminal is for Emergency use, they're not intended for constant service. Get either these Crimp on types (http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L081DF0483E95C3FEADA0812+M37+ENG ) or one of these Solder on types (http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L081DF0483E95C3FEADA0812+M37+ENG ) for use at the battery. If you insist on a side terminal battery then you can either use crimp or solder lugs, or the normal side terminal battery lugs.
Soldering cables that size can be tricky to do right. Usually you don't know you've done it wrong until they strand you 30 miles from pavement. Crimp if you can.
Also, it is good practice to run a seperate ground cable from the battery to the engine block. Don't rely on the frame for part of the starting circuit. When the battery is strong you can get away with using the frame for part of the starting circuit. When the battery is low is when this can make the difference in whether the truck starts or not. I usually ground the battery to the frame close to the battery, and from that SAME grounding bolt run a cable up to the block near the starter.
steveG
June 27th, 2004, 23:49
Any decent parts store should have all the cable, terminals, heat shrink tubing and solder pellets (if you're not crimping). If you figure out what lengths and ends you need they might even be willing to crimp the terminals on for you.
GASPORTS4EVR
June 28th, 2004, 12:14
Boy, this is why I love this site, you ask a simple question, and get a ton of good replies, thanks guys for the info. I'm going to check out those links, hey KitRacer, good glovebox idea..
Thanks,
Chris
KitRacer
June 28th, 2004, 18:45
Now just don't go tell all your friends
Project1500
June 28th, 2004, 19:05
Hey Chris I know of a place where you can get custom battery cables made exactly how you want them.
PM me if interested.
GASPORTS4EVR
June 28th, 2004, 19:37
No worries! I'll keep it on the "DL"
Chris
jaferri
June 28th, 2004, 20:31
Chris, Still waiting on progress pic's. Anyway like what was said earlier alot of people come into my work (WestAir) and buy the thick ground/work cable for the Arc welders. We have sold it to ton's of Hydraulic, drag racers and I also use it on the race truck that I fab on. Just go into any welders supply shop and ask fro a box of 1/0 cable. - Josh
ntsqd
June 30th, 2004, 22:05
There is a small disadvantage to using welding cable. Because it uses fine strand sizes to make nice and flexible (a bonus for routing it under a vehicle) it also tends to corrode btwn the strands faster. If you use it be sure to use adhesive lined heat shrink (not just normal heat shrink) and bridge the gap btwn the insulation and the terminal or lug with it. Do this on a dry day and it'll live a long time. If you're anal-retentive aboot things leave the cable lying in the sun for a while first.
GASPORTS4EVR
July 1st, 2004, 19:29
I never even thought about that TS, that's a good point. I actually found everything I need at a marine supply shop recomended above.. Thanks guys for helping me out!!
Chris
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