View Full Version : Better ball-Joint Boot?
GASPORTS4EVR
May 28th, 2004, 00:47
As we all know, when using a pickle fork to separate ball joints from spindles, the dust boot gets destroyed, i have allways used over the counter boots found at Pep boys ect. Does anybody know where I can find a better more durable boot? Do they come in different colors? Thanks in advance..
Chris
offroadaction
May 28th, 2004, 04:37
Energy Suspension makes urethane boots for some applications.
www.energysuspension.com (http://www.energysuspension.com)
johnnyweb
May 28th, 2004, 10:16
dont use the fork and it wont be a problem. hit the round eye side of the spindle with a large hammer to bust loose the balljoint. it may take a couple of strong hits but it works every time. only use the fork if all else fails. this should help you out. also you can probably order the boots from the dealer. oem parts rule!!!
GASPORTS4EVR
May 28th, 2004, 13:35
Thanks Wes & Jhonny for the info. I am going to drive over to MCenzies @ lunch and find something, they stock a bunch of "Energy" products. I tried the hammer routine, and just "wacked" it! I gues i'm not as strong as I thought.. As for colors, black & red are all that are available..
Chris
picone
May 28th, 2004, 14:30
They have these types of separators too, specifically for ball joints. Tighten and smack the top with a sledge:
http://www.edirectory.co.uk/pf/images/products/225/images/13913.jpg
http://www.bcbroncos.com/tierodremover1.gif
http://www.bcbroncos.com/balljointpress1.gif
IDRA_CRB
May 28th, 2004, 17:20
When using the "Whack" method for loosening balljoints and tie-rod ends use two large hammers. Hold a large ballpeen hammer against the knuckle boss and strike it with the second hammer. This way if you miss you are less likely to damage anything.
This works even on heavy-duty equipment like Peterbilts and motorcoaches.
Reese
SuperDave
May 28th, 2004, 18:51
[ QUOTE ]
When using the "Whack" method for loosening balljoints and tie-rod ends use two large hammers. Hold a large ballpeen hammer against the knuckle boss and strike it with the second hammer. This way if you miss you are less likely to damage anything.
This works even on heavy-duty equipment like Peterbilts and motorcoaches.
Reese
[/ QUOTE ]
Be careful if you're going to hit two hammers together. If they're both harden steel hammers, one hammer can shatter. Better wear your safety glasses.
ntsqd
May 28th, 2004, 21:48
While an accidental hit is possible, I don't think that was Reese's intent. The idea is to make the spindle have more inertia by the mass of the backing, or 'Bucking' hammer. Makes for a more efficient method of popping the TRE/BJ studs loose.
If you are swinging a hammer you should have glasses or goggles on anyway.
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
When using the "Whack" method for loosening balljoints and tie-rod ends use two large hammers. Hold a large ballpeen hammer against the knuckle boss and strike it with the second hammer. This way if you miss you are less likely to damage anything.
This works even on heavy-duty equipment like Peterbilts and motorcoaches.
Reese
[/ QUOTE ]
Be careful if you're going to hit two hammers together. If they're both harden steel hammers, one hammer can shatter. Better wear your safety glasses.
[/ QUOTE ]
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