8.8 vs. 9inch

[mcne]

What are the pros and cons of keeping the 8.8 in my 87 F-150? I know that a 9 inch is stronger but also expensive if bought new. (to me at least) I do not race my truck or beat on it everyday. It is my daily driver that sees occasional romping. My engine is stock and I do not plan on putting a big horsepower engine in it later. Do I need a 9 inch? I want to put in a limited slip/locker and gears in the 8.8. I estimate about a grand to do that. Did any older Ford cars/trucks come with a limited slip or locker and low gears? I will probably use 3.73's. I have the C-6 and want to be able to cruise on the highway. I have no idea what a junk yard 9 inch goes for and I am unable to check since I am out of the country at this time. If I could find a junkyard rearend what is recommended preparation besides changing the gear oil. I have heard that the 9 inchs last forever and shouldn't need new bearings in it assuming it does not have a million miles on it. Is it worth trying to find one with disc brakes? What type of Lincoln has discs and is the same width as the truck? I also remebering reading previous posts about the advantage/disadvantage of the floater/non floater. Should I worry about finding a floater or non floater? If an axle breaks which one holds on the wheel assembly? Finally if I were to find a rearend that is good how much better would it be compared to the 8.8? Remember I do not have a race truck. Thanks, Brian.

[Steve_HKmtrsprts]

This is what I got from emailing Currie and I am going this route.

"We do a lot of heavy duty build ups on 8.8's here, and basically when we are
done with them they are as strong as an 8.8 can be. We would obviously have
to retube to go wider, so we would retube, install 9" Ford large bearing
style housing ends, custom make a set of our forged alloy 31 spline tapered
large bearing axles, you would be able to retain your existing brake backing
plates and hardware, you would just have to buy my new drums. Then I could
also reset-up the center section for you and install the LPW aluminum rear
cover with the carrier cap stabilizers. This is about the best you can do
for an 8.8."

[01Baja4x4]

In my opinion if your not racing, prerunning, or really beating on your truck you can spend the money on something else and keep your 8.8. The 8.8 isn't exactly a weak axle. Personally, I would buy new gears and traction devise instead of finding one in an old car or truck.
-Tim

[mcne]

Thanks guys. I will stick with the 8.8. Which type of rearend loses the wheel assembly when the axle breaks? Brian.

[singlehanded]

non floaters I believe........

[CRAIGHALL]

The 8.8 has a c-clip that hols the axles in i believe.I broke the carrier on my ranger and the axle slid out about 3" inches.Many companies make a c-clip eliminator kit I think one should fit a truck 8.8.

[singlehanded]

but with the c-clip eliminator I believe you must buy new axels..

[mcne]

I will look into the C-clip eliminators. I am curious, how did you know you broke the carrier while driving? Just noticed the power loss first or was there a noise? At least the axle moves only 3 inches and the wheel does not come flying off. I can only imagine driving down the road and seeing my rear tire roll past me. Brian.

[CRAIGHALL]

Actually a week before it broke there was a loud snap and bang that come to find out came from the rearend while going from reverse to 1st.--I was driving about 10-15 mph down a really rutted road when something came loose and shot the carrier cross pin out the diff cover, axle slid out and the rearend locked up.Cost too much to replace it all to still be an 8.8 so I bought a 9".