Need Buggy Steering advice

[1992f150]

Ok so I'm trying to get the steering done on my buggy, the problem is the shaft is too low and hits my foot if I try to use the brake pedal. I cannot just raise it up because then the shaft hits the underside of the frame tubing, as you can see in the pictures (the cluster of 1" tubing behind the rack and pinion).
So now I am looking for ideas on how to fix this problem. I've tried looking at it from every different way, the only thing I could come up with is cutting off the frame tubing and building it up again in a different spot.
Thanks in advance
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p3ba0ffe1af09216e7310a6c0126509d3/fbe689fd.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p9edeb40b5b3da617dd5058493440ec1d/fbe68a0e.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/pd9f8a2d1fa1b0ab3c2ce557f7a0c8c8e/fbe68a0b.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p17a0b35b419ef87cc1e6ef4ea10d9e2c/fbe689ff.jpg
P.S. The frame is a chenowth 4wld. Oh yea don't worry the wood floor is just for mocking up the pedals so I have a place to rest my feet when I check for fit.

[MNotary]

The angle of the rack mount correct?

Move the seat/pedals/steering wheel back and change the angle of the steering wheel.

[1992f150]

rack should be correct, seats arent going any farther back.

[FABRICATOR]

It really looks like just shortening the steering wheel shaft would do the trick. It would move the lower section of the long shaft toward the apex of the tubes where there is more height available. This would raise the long shaft and move it away from the pedals.

[1992f150]

the short shaft cannot be shortened, only lengthened. The long shaft above the pedals is hitting the frame tubing, and that is as high as it goes. If I shortened the shaft at the wheel then it wouldnt be able to connect to the U-joint.

[FABRICATOR]

That steering shaft does not appear to be up in the apex as much as it could be. But if what you say still applies, then the next move would be to lessen the angle of the steering box. It should be pointing at or just above the steering wheel. It looks like it is pointing way above that. The tie rods don't care about the angle, only the height of the rack. Moving the box shaft down just a little would allow you to shorten the steering wheel shaft. This would move the long shaft up and away from the pedal area.

[michael_loomis]

careful .... as moving the rack direction will affect the bumpsteer ... although it does look quite high.

[ntsqd]

I concur, the angle of the rack's input shaft is too high. Ideally the input and all of the steering shafts will lay in the same tilted semi-horizontal plane. Doing so will reduce the operating angles of the U-J's.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
careful .... as moving the rack direction will affect the bumpsteer ... although it does look quite high.

[/ QUOTE ]

Assuming the bump is as correct as a beam car can ever get, rotating the rack about the inner TRE's or SRE's, and not the upper beam tube, will not affect bumpsteer. Means making a new bracket for the rack though.

[1992f150]

thanks I ended up chopping the rack mount and rotating it as accurately as possible, pointing the steering nub down and keeping the tie rod mount plate in the same spot. I got it tack welded right now, it gained some bumpsteer, about +1.5 at full droop, and +1/2 at full bump. The steering shaft has plenty of clearance now, so it is just a matter of tweaking the rack mount abit then welding it up. http://www.race-dezert.com/vb3/attachments/old/images/graemlins/grin.gif