PDA

View Full Version : RUST....PAINT OPTION


beamdream
December 12th, 2002, 12:43
OK. Im near completion on my 3 link and was wondering how long I could run my Tacoma before rust starts to build on my trailing arms, wishbone, bumper, differential......all that good stuff. I was thinking maybe a week before rust starts to form. Now I want to paint certain areas black and certain areas grey/silver. What is a good paint, whether it be spray paint or whatever, to use on my metal and chromally? Because I know alot of guys probably have done this yourself right? Thanks.

C-$

Kritter
December 12th, 2002, 13:07
Hammerite spray paint...use it.

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."

Waldo
December 12th, 2002, 14:00
Second that notion!

>>>>>>>>>>WHETHER YOU THINK YOU CAN OR THINK YOU CAN'T, YOU ARE RIGHT<<<<<<<<<

JrSyko
December 12th, 2002, 14:21
I took Kris' advice on the hammerite a while back and the stuff works!!

See ya in the dirt!

SpareChangeRacng
December 12th, 2002, 14:41
My friend swears by the Krylon "Hard Hat" stuff they sell at home depot. It is "professional grade" or whatever they call it. The stuff seems to work well. And it comes in many colors, not just the "hammered" finish of hammerite. Steve

Kritter
December 12th, 2002, 15:12
Hammerite comes in quite a few colors now and has a baked on type finish...kinda like powder coating.

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."

fishd00d
December 12th, 2002, 15:14
Ya they changed it. I used it before and now I went to get a new can and it looks different than the old stuff. Its more defined now....sticks out more....thicker...whatever ya wana call it.

Go Big Or Go Home
United Jumping Truck Society

In_the_works
December 12th, 2002, 16:10
I would advise using some lighter colored (white?) primer before you use the hammerite. It will be a lot easier to tell what areas are fully covered, as well as which spots you might have missed.

'96 F-150 4x4 ex cab
'02 Maico 250

beamdream
December 12th, 2002, 16:55
Right on guys....thanks for the replys.

C-$

Curtis Guise
December 12th, 2002, 20:15
I have used the Hard Hat paint by Krylon and it works good. If you have a little more money, time and a spray gun then go get some single stage PPG paint at a auto body supply store and shoot the parts with that. Just make sure you won't need to change anything on those parts if you are going to spend the money on it.

Custom_Yota
December 12th, 2002, 21:32
with hammerite you don't have to prime it. and you can gewt it in a gallon can for like 40 bucks at home depot The stuff kicks ass

Kritter
December 12th, 2002, 23:10
Hamerite is hard to shoot...we have an industrial sprayer and compressor for a 250,000 sq ft shop (so you know how big it is) and had problems shooting it.

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."

ntsqd
December 12th, 2002, 23:36
POR-15.com

You can shoot it, but it's a hassle. Buy a bunch of cheap brushes and brush it on. Harder than Hammerite, and it self-levels like no other paint I've ever seen. Don't worry about the brush strokes, they'll disappear.
Oh yea, if you have to weld under it later, be prepared to clog some 36 grit discs cause you almost can't burn it off and you will not strike an arc thu it.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.

ntsqd
December 12th, 2002, 23:41
Oops, make that por15.com

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.

SpareChangeRacng
December 13th, 2002, 11:34
My friend made sure to point out last night that the "Hard Hat" stuff is NOT Krylon but Rust-o-leum. Whatever it is, it works good. Steve

beamdream
December 13th, 2002, 12:12
Cause what Im trying to do is keep the 'polished' look on my bumper and need to know what to use for that. I dont want a powdercoat look either. I used Hammerite on my front and was impressed but what should I do in my situation....hhhmmmm....

C-$

Kritter
December 13th, 2002, 12:26
Hammerite.

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."

Bryan_D
December 13th, 2002, 15:28
Where do you get hammerite? I live in Az and need to spray my cage and bumpers will this work for me? Also is it that self leveling stuff like the por15 stuff? Could I bruch this on some of my cage that I cant shoot?

fishd00d
December 13th, 2002, 15:31
Home Depot has it...

Go Big Or Go Home
United Jumping Truck Society

Bryan_D
December 13th, 2002, 15:33
Thanks Fish, hey what would you recommend for a cage thats inside a cherokee? Is there anything that wont get everywhere when putting it on? I sprayed the cage with a rattle can before and was high as a kit by the time I was done. ANy help would be nice.

fishd00d
December 13th, 2002, 16:16
Ya I just sprayed mine...just used regular paint....just tape off everything you dont want to get painted and your good to go. Put down all the windows and open all the doors and just do it parts at a time if you dont want to get all light headed lol.

Go Big Or Go Home
United Jumping Truck Society

ACID_RAIN28
December 13th, 2002, 22:16
I am not sure I understand your post correctly but I think you wanted a way to leave your bumper with a polished look. then i would suggest using an automotive clear coat, just scotchbrite all the heat scars out and then it will look polished.

The problem with the guns spraying right, is I am assuming that you have a spray gun from like HF, Standard automotive gun? Any way, there is not enough passage space for the thick paint to flow through, some primers give me trouble, when they do i usually run my finger around the tip when just air is flowing and it cleans out most of the time, if it is possible mabey you can use some laquer(sp) and thin the mix out a little, I have never used the stuff in question but mabey that will help. also they make guns to spray thick stuff like rino liner and such.
Most Auto paint supplyers carry all types of guns.

and if i am way off sorry for the waist of space


Anyone can escape into sleep, we are all geniuses when we dream.

ThriceGuy
December 13th, 2002, 23:45
lets see pics of your truck!!

Kritter
December 14th, 2002, 00:57
The gun wasnt cheap...it was like in the $250-300 range(not sure if that is a cheapy or not)...I think that stuff is just so thick it needs to be dilutted...A LOT.

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."

ACID_RAIN28
December 14th, 2002, 11:25
No it sounds like a good one, just it was probably made for auto's and they most always dilute the material being sprayed. I am not sure or not but I think you can get a larger nozzle for it and it should be able to handle it, If not go to your local paint store that would know about the gun and ask them if it would be possible to "thin" the material.

Anyone can escape into sleep, we are all geniuses when we dream.

elcaprerunner
December 15th, 2002, 18:25
Okay, first I apologize for deriving (sp?) this thread but my question does not seem reason enough to start a new one....... On my '86 El Camino the paint is horrible, it is about as smooth as primer. The reason it is so bad is because since its been made there has been about 14 or 15 coats of paint put on this car, probably about Maico quality paint jobs but the thing is whenever it was painted the coat that was currently on it never got sanded off, so my car still has 15 coats of paint on it underneath the paint that is on it now. Plus it also has some primer spots on it because all of the moldings were taken off. Now my question is: Whenever I wash it the whole car dries before I even get the windows dried ( I dry the windows first), could it be that because there is so many coats of paint on my car that the paint absorbs all of the water? I know it sounds far-fetched but it is the only thing I can think of.

Also, I am told that the only way now to get a descent paint job on my car is to sand blast the whole thing down to bare metal and start over. Can anyone recomend a better idea that will work good so I can finally have descent paint on my car? Or can anyone recomend a place in the 714 or the 909 that will do a good job sand blasting and primering for relatively cheep? Thanks.

DIRT'S FOR RACING, PRERUNNERS ARE FOR GETTING THERE!

H.O.R.E.
Hemet Off-Road Enthusiests

ACID_RAIN28
December 15th, 2002, 20:11
You don't have to remove all the paint

When you break down a factory job there are like 4-5 layers till you get to the clear coat. If you sand blast it, first off very uncost affective, you will find all the hidden rust, even more work to repair.

I can paint you car for cheaper than any one, most of the time. I have seen it and from what I remember it did not look to bad off, but I was busy racing. There are lots of ways to fiqure out how many times it has been repainted. Stop by the shop with yota tech one of these days and I will point them out to you. Any way, My dad has an autobody buisness so we can do it and ill give you an rdc user discount.

as for the paint absorbing the water, doubt it when my truck was primer..wait it still is primer, It would do the same thing, it might absorb a little water but not of any significance, if the clear is gone on it, it has a flat finish look to it and you probably just don't see the water.

Anyone can escape into sleep, we are all geniuses when we dream.

scott
December 15th, 2002, 20:39
Rust will happen immediately.... I use Black Hammerite, which is a dark grey in color, and it covers chips and scrapes real well.... Home Depot or Lowe's hads the stuff for a little under $ 6.... Good Luck !!