Perfect Motorsports Chenowth DR 2

[Perfect Race]

Here are some photos on my car I rebuilt this spring. I did some chassis updates to make it Score legal, lowered the spare down over the trans and fixed some cracks, etc.. I stress relieved the chassis and powder coated everything. It is chassis # 26 and was built in 88 or 89 for Bill Church. I went through everything on the car except the engine that had 1 race and the body paint. I mostly race MORE now and someday I'll build an 1835 and race Score when I get some money and the kids are older.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2715.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2717.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2719.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2721.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2724-1.jpg

[Michael Pee]

Great looking little 2 seater. More is a great place to race.

[Dezertpilot]

Chassis is looking very nice, we race an older Raceco, one of the last beam cars to be ran in class one. The car owner has done a bunch of updates in preperation for the big race this year. We also run MORE, a great place to run!

[motochris]

Are there still torsions in that rear housing?

[MO'B MOTORSPORTS]

Are there still torsions in that rear housing?

if you look at the side pic the spring plate is hollow it wouldnt be if there was

[bw1482]

sweet car looks great, those older beam cars are my favorite looking car.

[mattb]

sweet car looks great, those older beam cars are my favorite looking car.

I agree. That is a great all around car. Nice job.

[Rory]

Lee, thanks for posting those pic's. Not too often you see a DR2 that nice, I can only hope mine turns out that good. What color did you paint the frame? I'm about a month away from testing mine for the first time and then gets stripped to the frame for powder coat. You did a very nice job...maybe you can talk to your buddies at Hot VWs and get that one featured TOO!

[Rory]

Lee, PM sent.

[mgobaja]

What about setting it up so both of you get into 1 article 2 x DR2, would be a good read.

[bcampbell04]

very nice. i love that chassis. always have. good luck with the rest of the project. bring it out to a SNORE race and race Class 10.

[mexracer10]

do you know who made those rear hubs?? I have a race-co with the same set up in the rear, and was curious who made them?? I was leaning towards early summers brothers, but not 100%

[Rory]

Probably Curnutt.

[wstephens]

Probably Curnutt.

The hub looks like curnutt, the brake calipers look like AP which I think was the original setup on curnutt hubs. The thing thats stumping me is the "hub cover/cap".

[mexracer10]

that hub cap is threaded on the inside and over the cv there is a flange much like a boot flange but with threads on the outsdie rim of it. The outter cap screws on over the flange on the cv. Its a wierd set up but i guess works. What gets me is how the inner part of the hub screws on to the outter part through the arm, been trying to figure out how to take it apart.

[wstephens]

that hub cap is threaded on the inside and over the cv there is a flange much like a boot flange but with threads on the outsdie rim of it. The outter cap screws on over the flange on the cv. Its a wierd set up but i guess works. What gets me is how the inner part of the hub screws on to the outter part through the arm, been trying to figure out how to take it apart.

If it is in fact a curnutt hub, I have them on my DR2 and needless to say, I have rebuilt them a couple times. It's no fun and you pretty much have to make your own tools to do it. There are a couple tricks to it, as far as o-rings and such. The bearings are still available from TIMKEN. It costs about $150 per set (bearing & race) and there are two sets per hub. Let me know if you need any info (part #'s). It's not rocket science, it just takes someone "walking" through it with you a couple times. By the way, if you have any doubts about your bearings, REPLACE them. It is easier and cheaper to replace the bearings than to replace your hubs. The curnutt hubs are made of "un-obtainium" (in other words you can't get them any more, and if you CAN get them, PLEASE LET ME KNOW)

[mexracer10]

well i dont know about the curnutt hubs but i was just at summers brothers new place and they are making a come back. They have their old stlye hubs that they are reverse engineering to bring back into production, along with their calipers and front hubs. the new owner is really cool and willing to work with the customers, he is making me a new set of axles for the raceco. As far as those curnutt hubs go how good are they at keeping water out??

[BHTool]

Nice Car!

[wstephens]

well i dont know about the curnutt hubs but i was just at summers brothers new place and they are making a come back. They have their old stlye hubs that they are reverse engineering to bring back into production, along with their calipers and front hubs. the new owner is really cool and willing to work with the customers, he is making me a new set of axles for the raceco. As far as those curnutt hubs go how good are they at keeping water out??

NOT!

It was recommended that after ANY race in which you go through water, Rebuild the hubs.
A little splash here and there, no big deal. If you go swimming, Rebuild the hubs.
Other than the water issue, they seem to be pretty tough. So far I have been happy with them. (knock on wood)

Who were you talking to at Summers Bros ? Contact Info would be great.

[Perfect Race]

Yes they are Curnutt hubs. They are held on the arm with 7, 1/2" dia. bolts, so they are a complete assembled hub separate of the arm. The hub cap is just a spun cap with inner threads at the opening. The c/v has a threaded ring that doubles as the ball retainer and the 6 bolts hold the c/v on through the ring. Pretty simple set up. They don't seal out the water very well. I have been using the same old bearings for along time about 15 races. Thanks for the good comments, it has taken a while but I finally got the "Full Teardown" done.

[wstephens]

Yes they are Curnutt hubs. They are held on the arm with 7, 1/2" dia. bolts, so they are a complete assembled hub separate of the arm. The hub cap is just a spun cap with inner threads at the opening. The c/v has a threaded ring that doubles as the ball retainer and the 6 bolts hold the c/v on through the ring. Pretty simple set up. They don't seal out the water very well. I have been using the same old bearings for along time about 15 races. Thanks for the good comments, it has taken a while but I finally got the "Full Teardown" done.

Glad to hear that!;) I think they're great. Just worried about getting parts if something were to happen. Car looks awesome. Someday I hope to upgrade my DP2 to coil overs with longer front arms.
Keep up the good work.