Sand Blasting-Who? How Much?

[C. Bucher]

I'm getting ready to rebuild an older 1600 car. I'd like to take all of the paint and rust off of it by having it sandblasted.

Does anyone know who in the San Diego area does? I would just like to have the frame and a few of the parts (tie-rods and so on) blasted. Doesn't have to be perfect though I would like to be able to inspect all of the welding before I get the car inspected by SCORE and begin to reassemble.

How much do you think something like that would cost?

[zetapsi827]

you might also want to look into a different type of sandblasting. there's a method out there that works just as good but is not as messy. it uses some kind of soapy chemical to clean the metal. When done, it doesn't leave any mess for you to clean up, or put impurities in your welds. i've seen it done once before but can't remember what it's called, maybe someone out here knows.

[Ryan_P]

Look into having the chassis shot-peened Cameron. lots do this after maging suspension parts and comes out great.

-Ryan

[TRichards]

ECP powdercoat in El Cajon can probably sandblast the chassis for you. Call them 619-448-3932 ask for Scott.

[C. Bucher]

Thanks guys.

Ryan, we've had arms and torsion bars shot-peened in the past. I just want to get the rust and paint off of the chassis before I go have it inspected.

I'll call ECP in the morning and see what they say.

[Ryan_P]

So I guess you are ditching the Chenoweth chassis idea eh? Haven't heard from you in a while, see you at the 500!? Bring me some steeeeeekers lol

-Ryan

[C. Bucher]

Got a quote today from a shop in the South San Diego area for $60 an hour at a MAXIMUM of 4 hours. I was told it would probably be closer to 2 hours but that it could take to 4 hours depending on how thing the paint and what not.

Sounds like a decent deal to me.

[ntsqd]

If this is a car and not a tube chassis I'd really give some thot to using something other than sand. Sand buries itself in all of the nooks and crannies of a typical car and you think the San Ignacio silt is bad? You won't believe what that car will be like. For a long time.

Crushed walnut shells, ground up corn cobs, and plastic media are the blasting media choice of hot rodders and restorers these days.

Also, powder coaters use steel though it's not round shot, it's more like irregularly shaped sand and flakes. Sand leaves silicone in the metal. Both powder coat and paint behave poorly around silicone. Can you say "Fish-eyes"?

[C. Bucher]

Yeah,

I read all about that in another thread where this topic was discussed. Aluminum Oxide as well as a few other types of media were talked about. Interesting to read about the difference in results between Silicon and Silicone.

It's a tube chassis and not a full bodied car.

[NIKAL]

Before you sandblast you might want to ask how much material the blasting might take off. I have heard of a few cars that failed Scores inspection and are putting new tops on the cars because the tubing thickness was to thin and there blaming sandblasting and scotch brighting the frame for the reason. Especially on a 1600 car where alot of cars were built with thinner tube to begin with. You figure if your car was built with .095 and the rules state that you must be .095 and you sandblast or sand the frame down there is a good chance you will take a thousanths or two off and that might make the differance with passing or not.

Just a thought?

[Ryan_P]

You are given a .010 leway on tubing thickness. I would doubt sandblasting or scotchbrite would take off that much.

-Ryan

[McClintock]

You are given a .010 leway on tubing thickness. I would doubt sandblasting or scotchbrite would take off that much.

-Ryan

What happen if you get a flaw'd tube from a tubing mfgr? They have tolerances in their manafacturing. 2 worst cage scenerios together could be bad.

[C. Bucher]

Yeah, I heard about a few cars missing tech over too small of a wall on the tube. The weldtec car was built with a WAY too small wall tube size.

SCORE allows for a .05 margin of error on tubing size. Required size is .090 I believe in this class because Adam Ashcraft had his car done and some of his tubing wall was close to non-pass as the wall was .86 when it was sold to him as .090 tubing.

Interesting to say the least. I'll bring that up to them as I already dont want to have to replace any of the chassis itself as it is.

[Ryan_P]

Which is correct Cameron? This is posted on SCORE's website under "tech notes" and is what I was told over the phone from Savage? This is getting frustrating...

For the purposes of determining roll bar tubing sizes, vehicle weight is as raced, but without fuel and driver. Note: There is an allowance of minus 0.010 inches on all tubing thicknesses.

-Ryan

[C. Bucher]

This is from Adam Ashcraft himself...-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I went to SCORE tech today for my inspection. I was in and out of there in about 30 mins. Chassis passed no problem. They did a magnaflux check for cracks and also checked the wall thickness of the A-pillar and and cross tubes. It was intresting to see the wall thickness of some 1-1/2 x .090 vary. SCORE gives you plus/minus .005. I had a section of tube that got down to .086 wall thickness. To anyone Overall I think it was well worth the $250 to have SCORE tech check and approve my chassis.

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16519&page=2

I'd check just to make sure. If SCORE says .10 I'd go with that. Adam might have heard different.

[ASHCRAFT]

Yeah, I heard about a few cars missing tech over too small of a wall on the tube. The weldtec car was built with a WAY too small wall tube size.

SCORE allows for a .05 margin of error on tubing size. Required size is .090 I believe in this class because Adam Ashcraft had his car done and some of his tubing wall was close to non-pass as the wall was .86 when it was sold to him as .090 tubing.

Interesting to say the least. I'll bring that up to them as I already dont want to have to replace any of the chassis itself as it is.
Sorry guys I just realized that my tubing size I listed in my thread was a typo. The wall thickness is .095. When Bill checked it the wall thickness was between .088-.086. Before I ever start building a car again I am going to haver Bill inspect the wall thickness of my tubing. The 1-1/2 .095 tubing was from Plymoth tube. The 1-1/2 x .120 was made in Germany(I dont recall the name of the manufacturer) and it went all the way down to .110 wall thickness. I would highly recommend that anybody building a new car have their tubing shipped with certifications and inspected by SCORE tech before any work is done. Sorry for screwing you guys up

[ASHCRAFT]

As far as sand blasting goes. I would find sombody that uses a "glass bead" to do the blasting. It is a much finer media than your typicall sand blasting media and wont take off as much material. I have never had a problem TIG welding parts after I blast them at my shop with glass bead. unfortunaltly my blasting cabinets are only large enough to blast a class 1 trailing arm for example. Sand blasting will take off material no matter what type of media you use. Scotch brite will also take off material. when Bill inspected my chassis the areas that reached .086 was where I scotch brited to weld.

[C. Bucher]

Thanks for the info Adam. I'm surprised that Scotch-brite takes off that much material.

[Big Oly TT]

R.W. Little by the SD airport, sand blasts and powder coats and other things. I always see some buggy, hotrod, or other specialty car in their facility.

[RickNasty]

Ortiz Sandblasting and paint does a real good job they're in National City. When I had my 55 chevy they did the whole car top and bottom for 400 and the primered it for me as well. They also own a powder coating business and are very resonable in price 619-477-3645 ask for Ortiz