sound proofing a prerunner

[charlie_brown]

I have a linked/caged street driven prerunner that I just took it out on its first long highway drive (the more race) and my ears and head were killing me with the noise coming from the cage. Does anybody know how I can make it more tolerable on long drives. I drive this truck to/from and prerun the races. Right now I have sprayed in “lizard skin” ceramic coating over everything inside (works great for the heat) and a factor rubber with insulation on the floor. Can some help out?

[Curtis Guise]

my best investment was the intercom that I installed!

I did put that thin air bubble insulation that has a foil looking layer on each side of it on the roof, floor and back of the cab so far. I think it helped a little.

[steveG]

I used to have an extremely loud V8 Ranger with minimal interior. Anything more than about 20 minutes of freeway driving got reeeaaaaalllllyyyy old. A long drive would leave you with ringing ears and feeling beat up (from the noise, not ride). I started using disposable foam earplugs that blocked out damaging (and tiring) noise but still allowed conversation with other occupants without yelling.

I know that's not the kind of suggestion you were after, but it's a cheap fix that will make driving your truck long distances a pleasure.

[J.JOHNSON]

Lin X The Entire Inside. Then Use The Insulating Material Found At An Interior Shop And Install Carpet And The Headliner Over As Much As Possible. That Is About As Good As You'll Get It.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

My experience with Line-X on the interior of one of my old Jeeps was TERRIBLE. It separated from the sheetmetal and moisture collected in the seams. It promoted rust more than it prevented it and made bodywork / repairs nearly impossible. A lot of my problems could have been due to a poor installation (San Luis Obispo), but the company also had awful customer service at the corporate level.

[teamtortoise]

I'll second the suggestion of an intercom system. I use a Sigtronics intercom and DC headsets (which I already had) in a totally stripped Baja Bug and they work great (w/o them, conversations required shouting). Unfortunately, my understanding is that they are illegal in California (unless set up to transmit external sounds--in particular, so that you can hear emergency vehicle sirens, etc.). Within CA I use the soft foam plugs (passenger typically chooses to use a headset).

[REEVESRacing]

Intercom.

[J.JOHNSON]

An Intercom Is Not Legal To Use On The Street. I Agree That You Need An Intercom But Not On The Highway. All Of My Experience W/ Line X Has Been Perfect. We Have Everthing Line X Ed From Prerunners To Trailers. You Could Also Use The Sound Proofing Paper That They Use At Stero Shops, But By The Time You Have Bought Enough To Put It From The Floor To The Roof You Will Have Spent More Than You Would Have On The Line X. I've Installed It On 2 Trucks And Yet To Have A Problem.

[charlie_brown]

Thanks for the responses. I did spry “lizard skin” ceramic coating that is more for heat then sound. I did not think that it would be this loud. They do have one that is just for noise but they recommend that you spay the sound control first then the ceramic. Its cool stuff, water based, sprayed it with my compressor, taped off what you don’t want and is “A” cert for fire (line X is very flammable and toxic). I spread out some mexi blankets around the cab and took it for a drive and that helped out a lot. I think I will spread out some of that felt (factor type) on the floor and than some dynamite on the fire wall and back wall. I was thinking of drilling a hole where the cage welds to the frame and fill it up with some lizard skin or silicone. Thanks for the help.

[Ryan_P]

Dynomat the cab.

-Ryan

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Dynomat the cab.

Second Skin (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi) is a more affordable alternative to Dynamat and is supposed to work just as well. I've got a 5-gallon bucket of their Spectrum liquid dampener that we're going to put in the Tacoma.

[McClintock]

Intercom/headsets are where its at. Sucks when u take them off though, sounds like your truck is falling apart.

[josh909]

Dynamat works great. I have it in my truck.

[FlyHiFlyLo]

I agree with you, Rattles and road noise really suck!


When you strip the interior you get tons of noise from the doors A and B pillars. If you spray expanding foam in these hollow areas it really deadens the harmonics. When you have the door panels off you can stick a one foot square of Dynamat on the outside door skin from the inside. Two one foot squares of Dynamat applied to the underside of the roof too. Also, when you do your sheet metal put as many bead rolls as possible. Whenever you rivet your sheet metal put a bead of clear silicon on all the over lapping seams. If you have your front fiber fenders bolted in the stock location put either a thin strip of rubber with adhesive or silicon. It is important to also use silicon on the bed sides too unless you are using dzus fasteners. (I prefer bolting with countersink bolts and Teflon nuts and a small pc of rubber in between for pre-runners). Where your cage comes through the body make sure you do a clean job so you don't loose cab structure and air gaps are no more than 1/4" and no less than 1/8" For the floor and the back of the cab and fire wall use rubber backed short bristled high quality carpet that is 100% glued down and fits snug to the cage tubes. Many interior components (Door handles, locks, shifters, glove box, stereo and etcetera.) and even other screwed on exterior accessories rattle too (lights). Use 3M weather strip adhesive on the screw threads and mounting surface.

Doing this to everything adds about 50 to 75 lbs. But, 50 LBS is no big deal compared to the benefits

Also, keep in mind of a fire issue remember that if you have an area that you feel may need more fab work or welding. Don't do that area yet.

When I was building stock trucks we found with doing all this (Cept carpet) we could actually hear the engine drive train and suspension working. Thus we knew when we really had a problem.

Hope this helps

[charlie_brown]

which Dyamat product do you recomend. i see several type on there web site.

[gnarleymarley]

spray foam. The expandable stuff in a can. Fill the cage with it. you will need to attach a piece of small, but long like 6feet or so, clear nylon tubing to the can nozel. you may have to drill a couple small holes for the line to enter then weld them up later.
That keeps sound from resonating from the frame into the cab. If your suspension is heimed the foam will really help the noise that produces. The tubes don't have to be full, just enough to stop the sound from traveling. Also fill all the hollow cab channels with the same stuff. The dyna every thing else.

[D.Mavis]

I have the same problem. I bought a partially finished prerunner truck, then finished it. When I drove it it sounded like there was a toolbox full of nuts and bolts sitting next to me. These are the things I did:

1. I found that the rollover valve in the fuel cell (installed by the previous owner) was a solid metal ball about 2" in diameter. it just sat in a metal cage and bounced around. I removed it and it made a huge difference.

2. I rhino lined the inside of the cab. I think that helped a bit. Its also easy to keep clean. I used dynamat in another vehicle and wasn't too impressed.

3. I lowered the stall on the converter from 4000 to 2800, this helped a lot.

4. I have dual rate springs on the coil overs. with aluminum go-betweens I made a plastic spacer so there wasn't metal to metal slapping- this didnt do a thing.

5. I think I can hear the bypass valves closing on the shocks pretty loudly- does anyone else have any comment on this one?

6. I just got an intercom system. I got it from Rugged Race products in san luis obispo, Ca. I decided to get one because I was driving it on the freeway and put my fingers in my ears and realized just how loud it was. When I was building the truck I put in speakers for a stereo, after one drive I realized that was a joke-I'd never be able to hear it. Like having a stereo in a ski boat. I havent driven with the intercom but I'm sure it will help. i got "pre running" helmets from rugged race products as well. They are basiclly lite duty helmets with headset style earcups and boom mike, to keep out the noise. The helmets are very cool, they're open face, very light, the shell is hard plastic, not composite, and theres foam padding. they wouldnt be appropriate for racing but would certainly give you lots of extra protection from hitting your head on the cage or windows. They're much cheaper than regular helmates too, and the earcups keep the noise out. You can also hook up your ipod or cell phone to the intercom, and they're voice activated so you can have a normal two way conversation. As far as it not being legal to wear a headset on the road, who cares, I'd rather be able to hear when I turn off the truck. Its also not a daily driver, if it was I'd probably get some form fitting headphones for my ipod. I bet having headsets or headset style helmets will make the biggest noise difference by far!

[movindirt]

I have the same problem. I bought a partially finished prerunner truck, then finished it. When I drove it it sounded like there was a toolbox full of nuts and bolts sitting next to me. These are the things I did:

1. I found that the rollover valve in the fuel cell (installed by the previous owner) was a solid metal ball about 2" in diameter. it just sat in a metal cage and bounced around. I removed it and it made a huge difference.
2. I rhino lined the inside of the cab. I think that helped a bit. Its also easy to keep clean. I used dynamat in another vehicle and wasn't too impressed.

3. I lowered the stall on the converter from 4000 to 2800, this helped a lot.

4. I have dual rate springs on the coil overs. with aluminum go-betweens I made a plastic spacer so there wasn't metal to metal slapping- this didnt do a thing.

5. I think I can hear the bypass valves closing on the shocks pretty loudly- does anyone else have any comment on this one?

6. I just got an intercom system. I got it from Rugged Race products in san luis obispo, Ca. I decided to get one because I was driving it on the freeway and put my fingers in my ears and realized just how loud it was. When I was building the truck I put in speakers for a stereo, after one drive I realized that was a joke-I'd never be able to hear it. Like having a stereo in a ski boat. I havent driven with the intercom but I'm sure it will help. i got "pre running" helmets from rugged race products as well. They are basiclly lite duty helmets with headset style earcups and boom mike, to keep out the noise. The helmets are very cool, they're open face, very light, the shell is hard plastic, not composite, and theres foam padding. they wouldnt be appropriate for racing but would certainly give you lots of extra protection from hitting your head on the cage or windows. They're much cheaper than regular helmates too, and the earcups keep the noise out. You can also hook up your ipod or cell phone to the intercom, and they're voice activated so you can have a normal two way conversation. As far as it not being legal to wear a headset on the road, who cares, I'd rather be able to hear when I turn off the truck. Its also not a daily driver, if it was I'd probably get some form fitting headphones for my ipod. I bet having headsets or headset style helmets will make the biggest noise difference by far!

Item #1 is needed if you roll over so fuel does not go everywhere, hence the name. You should be able to find a plastic ball or a valve with one.

Item #3 Wow that is some high stall for a prerunner. Heck I can't even talk most racers into it. I bet it is a little slower out of the hole but gets better mpg if its a DD.

Item #5 Yes the bypass valves make a ton of noise. I seem to remeber Bret King saying something about having nylon (or some sort of plastic) check valve or ball to cut down on the noise. Not sure about other shock manfs.

[D.Mavis]

I should have clarified the post above. I removed the big rollover valve, and replaced it with a small -8, I think, which doesnt make any noise. As far as the 4000 rpm stall converter, I think the previos owner collected random parts from old school trophy trucks and made a prerunner out of them. I think he thought, If works for a trophy truck it must work better for a prerunner? Its taken a long time to go through it piece by piece, and replace the parts which arent appropriate for a prerunner- I got a nice 4000 stall converter for a th-400 that I'd sell for cheap!! its tig welded!

[McClintock]

Bypasses alone will make any prerunner sound like its falling apart, sounds like a can of marbles the whole time. Especially 3" shocks.

[charlie_brown]

i am afraid to squirt some of that expandable foam on my truck any where because it has a low flash burn and stinks to high heaven (clears out my garage). i notice that there is different types, is they any deferent’s. it does work good though. i order another 2 gal bucket of the lizard skin and this time i am going to spray the cage from the window down (just the sheet metal is sprayed now). I am also going to drill a hole into at about 2” from the frame and spray it inside the cage. I also just change out the gear oil to the redline shock synthetic that’s says on there that it will help reduce the noise.

[knucklemeat]

i am afraid to squirt some of that expandable foam on my truck any where because it has a low flash burn and stinks to high heaven (clears out my garage). i notice that there is different types, is they any deferent’s. it does work good though. i order another 2 gal bucket of the lizard skin and this time i am going to spray the cage from the window down (just the sheet metal is sprayed now). I am also going to drill a hole into at about 2” from the frame and spray it inside the cage. I also just change out the gear oil to the redline shock synthetic that’s says on there that it will help reduce the noise.
i asked an experienced fab guy about this and he told me that burning expandable foam makes fosgene(sp?) or mustard gas...........deadly! careful where you put that stuff. maybe some one else can shed some light on this subject.

[RCinqMars]

Dynomat the cab.

-Ryan


agreed, probably your best bet.... if you haven't already, invest in a intercom. its nice to be at speed and not have to scream at each other. we also did the line-x deal, worked out well.

[charlie_brown]

where wood be a good place to get an intercom that will work with a 2 way, mp3 and a radio as well as talking? would it be beter to wait untill one of the shows to get one?
thanks

[partybarge_pilot]

UUHHHHH, PCI? Racer X? Both of there pre-runner units will do all that.

[Brad Falin]

I have used the dynamat, I got it at summit, it was the heaviest stuff they make. Hummer also sells a sound deadning spray on paint that they use on the interiors of the 2006 hummers, It also works well. The dynamat is expensive but it works well, but not as good as a helmet and intercom.

[Jack]

Helmet and intercom are great, just don't use it on the road. I know that there are single sided head sets, I wonder if any one has removeable sides to use on the street then clip it back on for the dirt.

[SPROCKET]

DYNOMAT.DYNOMAT.DYNOMAT.I installed the heaviest one in my ranger on every flat surface i could find then took the truck to the upholstry shop and had headliner made and carpet install. works great. my wife will now ride in my truck with me.only draw backs are its hard to clean when you get back from baja.

[McClintock]

How much did the headliner and carpet set you back?

[josh909]

1497 try Stich by Stitch in Mentone. I think Woody knows the owner too. I don't know how to spell his name but it's pronounced yawn.

[McClintock]

Sweet thanks.

[RanchoRacer1600]

they make the headphones for intercoms with only one speaker and one ear free. use an earplug or something, plus some intercoms have audio in, so you can plug in your radio deck to it and go from there. its not the cheapest thing to do since intercoms do get expensive. but we have one in our prerunner(vw motor = very loud!) and they dimm out all the loud noises to a dull sound. pci, racerx, and various other companies make them

[pciscott]

When building my prerunner insulation and noise was a large concern and I went overboard with special heat shield wallpaper, silicone backed sound barrier, dynomat, and full interior. I also had custom 24" Borla mufflers installed. The truck has the motor mounted solid though and noise when driving over 3000 RPM is still an issue. I have an intercom system with stereo and race radio plumbed in and it works great. We do offer single sided headsets that make your system legal for street use, but they defeat the purpose by letting too much noise in your unplugged ear so my suggestion is to tint your windows which helps keep the cab much cooler to make your air conditioning function better and the fix it ticket is not that bad. The downfall to running headsets is you do not hear your cars noises when she is getting ready to break down or blow up, but I usually drive them tell they will not drive anymore and worry about fixing it later. If you are riding solo Verizon has a new Razor multi-media phone that you can download your music on to with a stereo headset. With this you can listen to your music and answer incoming calls with the touch of a button. This is awesome and blows my Ipod away with the phone functionality. When choosing headsets the over the head models are much more comfortable for long preruns and adding the gel ear cups and cloth covers adds to your comfort levels. Good luck and pm me if you have any questions on the products I used to insulate my cab, I can prerun all day with the windows up and the A/C blasting. I have also deadheaded from PCI to Baja many times and have never had to call for help yet thanks to my onboard welder! I have been pulled over twice and have not been given a ticket yet as the they just wanted to take a look and make sure my paperwork was in order. The intercom is the answer, but I would still work on insulation and sound dampening to make you ride more comfortable. My friend Rick Johnson has been testing his new Hot Rod without interior and it is like an oven and almost seems like the A/C does not work at all. One last tip always run a mechanical fan to cool your engine. I tried all kinds of electrical fans and the high output ones would not cool the truck enough when pulling a hill or in deep sand, after blowing head gaskets twice we worked in a mechanical fan off a jack shaft and the truck stays below 180 degrees even on a hot San Felipe day going up Matomi wash. When my truck ran hot I would end up with ten pounds of silt in the cab and I would be blowing dirt out of my nose for days :) For those of you looking for a complete intercom and race radio system we will be running a special from the Sand Sports show through the off-road expo on our package deals. Not only does PCI offer competitive prices we also have an extra wind noise circuit in the 4 link pro intercom exclusive to PCI along with an extra 5Db of noise canceling on our headset microphones making our system function better than anyone else’s on the market. Good luck setting up your Hot Rod and see you at the races! As always PCI appreciates your support along with my Father the Weatherman!

[SimonSays]

I had a noise V8 ranger i had lots of problems with noise and heat and smells from the exhaust, I fixed all that by running header-rap down the headers, putting on flowmaster super 40 mufflers(they are strong and quiet), i put down some insulation on the floors, and spray foamed the interior then carpeted over it all, and put an intercom system that has a cell phone port and mp3 capability, Now its quiet in there its awsome, all i can hear is the clicking of my 3in bypasses, they are noisy and there is not much you can do about that.

[charlie_brown]

and spray foamed the interior then carpeted over

be very carefull with some of that expanible foam form the local hardware store. its a great for sound but it has a very low flash point and when it burnes look out. i had some in a spot to seal up a seam and when i was rebuiding my cab cage i was cuting that spot out with my plasma and i had to leave my garage with a fan on for a long time. i could not get that stuff off with out burning it out.

i endind up solving the probelm i had with several fixes.
1, i sprayed a sound/heat all over the sheet metal and cage from the windows down. its call lizard skin. sumit sells it and hot rod shops have it. its tuff, low A1 fire rated

2, standerd car inslation with a rubber mat over it

3, the biggest thing that i did that made a differance was cut the "B" piler tube were it welded up to the frame and remonted it with a bushing. that tube was so close to my link monts that all the rear end noise was reverberationg through out the cab.

[Chris_Wilson]

On my bronco I have a 10 point cage welded to the body and frame. Orignally we had a cage tube terminated onto the front leaf spring bracket (to put the suspension load directly into the cage/chassis). Big mistake, the leaf springs make a lot of noise you don't normally hear and the cage acted as a sounding board. We moved that cage tube to the frame and cut the noise level way down. Mounting the cage to the frame with bushings sounds like a great idea to help keep the noise down on you prerunner. That might even be enough to isolate the bypass valve noise.

We are getting ready to cage another bronco and we might try this using Delron bushings with chromoly sleeves like we do for the leaf spring pivots.

[steveG]

When I build a cage for my Bronco I was planning on using bushings to isolate noise and to leave the option of separating the body/cage from the body. I really hate having to cut things off my trucks when I change my mind or they break....

Here are some good examples from an Autofab built truck.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466143/fullsize/wills-truck-(123).jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466144/fullsize/wills-truck-(124).jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466145/fullsize/wills-truck-(149).jpg

[McClintock]

Take a look at the Centrix Blue Supercrew prerunner that was at the Expo this year. The shock mounts were on bushings.

[ChuckH]

Small aircraft have the same sound issues, i have been using noise canceling headsets since 2000 and would never go back to regular headsets.

Review of non pilot noise canceling headsets
http://www.thetravelinsider.info/9nov2001.htm

A good pilot set can do 17-30 dB Active and 23 dB Passive noise reduction, some have cell phone interfaces also
http://www.spinnerspilotshop.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/scstore/headsets.htm?L+scstore+lzcg9393ff375137+1166351733

[ntsqd]

Only issue with headsets (other than cost) is can't have both ears covered on the street.

[jbranchfab]

solid mount the cab if you havnt yet, weld the cage to the cab as much as you can, i have this done to my truck with the whole inside of the cab(everything as far as factory sheet metal) coated with tnt spray in truck liner of hemet, they did a good job, clean prep! and i dont think i will have a problem with it failing! my truck is pretty quiet.

[movindirt]

solid mount the cab if you havnt yet, weld the cage to the cab as much as you can, i have this done to my truck with the whole inside of the cab(everything as far as factory sheet metal) coated with tnt spray in truck liner of hemet, they did a good job, clean prep! and i dont think i will have a problem with it failing! my truck is pretty quiet.

The only problem with a spray on truck liner is you can't check for cracks very easy and repairs will take more work. I would limit use to the floor area.

Chris I know for a fact that a cage on bushings like Steve pictured will handle race conditions. You may find the delrin to still be loud. All we used were urathane bushings w/ steel sleeves. I would make the sleeves from stainless on a prerunner or the will rust out.

[Jake97T]

Ive had pretty good results with roof flashing, others claim it gets a tar like smell when its hot, but its the same as Dynamat extreme, its foil on one side and tacky on the other side, you can get a 25' x 6" roll for $13 at Homedepot, vs. several times that for dynamat.

[SimonSays]

Only issue with headsets (other than cost) is can't have both ears covered on the street.

You can't have tinted windows either, or a spool, or stainless brake lines, or your modified exhaust or a fuel cell or your racing seats and belts or half the crap you got on your truck but we do anyway. Your ear drums are more important than if its 'street legal'

[JebusTheGreat]

Does anyone have any other input? I just read through this whole thread... Any solution to bypass clicking noise? Can I use this lizard skin stuff and then dynamat over that?

Thanks in advance guys

[SimonSays]

Does anyone have any other input? I just read through this whole thread... Any solution to bypass clicking noise? Can I use this lizard skin stuff and then dynamat over that?

Thanks in advance guys

I am still in the proses of workin on mine still. I have heard that the blackhawks dont make the loud clicking noises of most 3ples. I have never driven in a truck with them so dont know but have heard it.

For my truck my silution is to put as much insulation and carpet down as possible weld the cab to the rollcage in as many spots as possible. Get headsets and intercom with aux in and throw 2 12 woofers in the back seat. If it starts gettin noisy just turn up the radio. lol

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/1208065567.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/1208065570.jpg
here is the start, its no where close to done.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

I just finished sealing-up the cab in our little red Tacoma and I laid down a thick coating of Second Skin (www.secondskindaudio.com). Made a difference, but not as much as when we applied the same coating to our other Tacoma, which isn't caged and still has all of the stock insulation, carpet, etc.

http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/content/news/tacoma_fab_update90.jpg

http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/content/news/tacoma_fab_update93.jpg

[SimonSays]

next step is carpet and leather to help quiet it down.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/1208666147.jpg

[dirkwoodscott]

next step is carpet and leather to help quiet it down.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/1208666147.jpg

leather........? in your prerunner?

[JESSE_at_TLT]

leather........?
I was going to ask the same thing.

[SimonSays]

I was going to ask the same thing.

if you think thats crazy then your gonna think my molded in iced chest with an drain is crazy too. Its getting carpeted over and there is gonna be 3 cup holders in the lid.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/1208893861.jpg

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Crazy? No, that's pimp. And don't take this the wrong way, but I think it's cool that (it looks like) you're doing it on a budget.

[SimonSays]

Crazy? No, that's pimp. And don't take this the wrong way, but I think it's cool that (it looks like) you're doing it on a budget.

a budget heck yeah, not including the stereo i have less then 500 bucks into the entire interior including all the carpet and leather! doing all the work myself is saving tons of money and im very happy the way its coming out.

[partybarge_pilot]

Leather works very well in a pre-runner, Doesn't hold dust like tweed. You just wipe it down and your done. Tweed will have silt coming out of it till the end of time.

[jeff]

A built in cooler isn't crazy... the coolest part of my uncles old Blazer prerunner was the built in center console cooler with drain. The top was padded and worked as an ultra cush armrest. Agree on leather/pleather too, easy to wipe down.

How much weight do you think you've added with the interior re-do?

Aloha

[SimonSays]

A built in cooler isn't crazy... the coolest part of my uncles old Blazer prerunner was the built in center console cooler with drain. The top was padded and worked as an ultra cush armrest. Agree on leather/pleather too, easy to wipe down.

How much weight do you think you've added with the interior re-do?

Aloha

dont have a figure on weight but its less then a half sheet of plywood and about 10yards of carpet and 9 of leather, i would say no more then 30lbs with everything going in. Each indavidual peice going in weights nothin going in but they can all add up faster then you think. lol

[SimonSays]

dont have a figure on weight but its less then a half sheet of plywood and about 10yards of carpet and 9 of leather, i would say no more then 30lbs with everything going in. Each indavidual peice going in weights nothin going in but they can all add up faster then you think. lol

30lbs of plywood and heat shield. I just picked up the carpet and leather last night weighed them last night, and they come out to 50lbs. so my guesss is this redo is gonna end up coming to around 100lbs by the time its done.

[jeff]

mass = sound damping. That's probably going to be the best 100lbs you'll ever add. Quiet is soooo nice.

Aloha

[SimonSays]

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/1209260983.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/1209260848.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/1209260918.jpg

[charlie_brown]

take it out and let use know how much it helped. i made panels for my truck and covered it with some foam and then some vinyl. it may of helped a little. the noise just keeps on coming through the cage. i haven’t done a head liner yet, maybe that will help.

[SimonSays]

take it out and let use know how much it helped. i made panels for my truck and covered it with some foam and then some vinyl. it may of helped a little. the noise just keeps on coming through the cage. i haven’t done a head liner yet, maybe that will help.

i have not put in the headliner yet and am still workin on the front seats and dash, im trying to figure out how to make the headliner somewhat removable because score will have to get in manga-flux and do there anual roll cage inspections.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Lether's obviously mo betta, you just don't see many people trying to do leather on a budget. I think it's rad that SimonSays is doing it himself. I've been looking for a good deal on an industrial sewing machine myself.

[SimonSays]

Lether's obviously mo betta, you just don't see many people trying to do leather on a budget. I think it's rad that SimonSays is doing it himself. I've been looking for a good deal on an industrial sewing machine myself.

lol my mom does sewing and embroidery has some pretty cool toys to play with.

[JebusTheGreat]

that interior is looking great! pretty nifty cooler mount and amp behind the seat deal...

and to whoever recommended leather/pleather over tweed, thanks. I didn't really think about how much easier leather is to clean than fabric! somehow i gotta make my interior super pimp on a super low budget haha. i also suck with wood work, i dont have a driveway to work on anymore, and i cant weld.... this should be fun.......... lol

[Tech Tim]

spray foam. The expandable stuff in a can. Fill the cage with it. .... SNIP..... That keeps sound from resonating from the frame into the cab. .....SNIP.... The tubes don't have to be full, just enough to stop the sound from traveling. Also fill all the hollow cab channels with the same stuff. The dyna every thing else.

With sound traveling through the cage work, I've always wondered about building small sound baffles to go inside the tubing.

If the foam trick makes a big difference, then a couple sound baffles should help out and without the disadvantages of the foam.

[SimonSays]

With sound traveling through the cage work, I've always wondered about building small sound baffles to go inside the tubing.

If the foam trick makes a big difference, then a couple sound baffles should help out and without the disadvantages of the foam.

we had wondered about making the frame air tight and filling the frame with nitrogen or helium feeon. (sometime of gas that wont make the metal rust) seeing if that would help the noise. and if you needed to fill up a tire or use some presurized air for something it would be nice for that too.

[Chris_Wilson]

Here's a link to a sound deadening comparison.

http://sounddeadenershowdown.com:80/

[JebusTheGreat]

So I actually ended up emailing the guy that wrote the article listed above, the sound deadener show down article. He recommended that I try Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) in my truck on the floor and 2 layers of a sound deadener everywhere else. I did the 1/8in thick MLV all on the floor of my truck and MAN IT HELPS A TON. The drawback is that it weighs a ton. I believe my 20 sq feet was like 60 lbs. It's commonly used on the walls of sound stages and under big machines and stuff. But yeah its QUIET, even with no sound deadening on the roof, doors, or much of the rear panels.

It's just about as quiet as my truck was before the cage. I can talk on my phone at speed fine now.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost24copy.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost25copy.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost26copy.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost27copy.jpg

[JebusTheGreat]

Also, there is other good information in the email response I received from him so here goes....

I doubt any of these products will do a great job at thermal insulation,
but they will help. It will help even more if you apply some closed cell
foam on top of the mat.

There are liquid products specifically formulated to block heat. Second
Skin, Cascade and LizardSkin make liquid products that contain ceramics
designed to block heat transfer. For a noisy vehicle with heat transfer
problems, I'd probably start with mat and then apply one of these
insulating liquids on top of that followed with a layer or two of closed
cell foam.

For a truck luck yours, where tire and road noise can be particularly
difficult issues, I'd probably also use a barrier on the floor. Most
sound deadening companies sell one but since you will need quite a bit,
Google "mass loaded vinyl" for construction sources. Lead is actually
better, but it's harder to find.

Eric wrote:
> Hi,
>
> First off, wonderful writeup and review on your version 2 showdown. It was VERY helpful. I was wondering if any of these have any insulation advantages or disadvatages compared to eachother. I have a gutted and caged Ford Ranger that is super noisy because there is nothing in there right now. It also gets SUPER hot during the summer and SUPER cold during the winter. Do you have any suggestions on which would keep the temperature more stable? Thank you so much.
>
> -Eric Anderson

[blacktaco666]

hey simonsays, you should consider putting a strap or something over that ice chest lid... my friend had an ice chest in his truck and when he came off a jump kinda hard the lid popped open on his ice chest and ice flew everywhere... he thought a window shattered or something and he about sh!# himself. also whatever beverages you're holding in there could jump out and hit you on the head!

[SimonSays]

hey simonsays, you should consider putting a strap or something over that ice chest lid... my friend had an ice chest in his truck and when he came off a jump kinda hard the lid popped open on his ice chest and ice flew everywhere... he thought a window shattered or something and he about sh!# himself. also whatever beverages you're holding in there could jump out and hit you on the head!

one is going it... the interior isnt finished yet...i had someone in the backseat with there hand over it the whole time for the 500.. but yeah its gettting one..


i just got to the headliner...
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/080717_225120.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/080719_134513.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/080719_122953.jpg

[ZJARCHER]

So I actually ended up emailing the guy that wrote the article listed above, the sound deadener show down article. He recommended that I try Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) in my truck on the floor and 2 layers of a sound deadener everywhere else. I did the 1/8in thick MLV all on the floor of my truck and MAN IT HELPS A TON. The drawback is that it weighs a ton. I believe my 20 sq feet was like 60 lbs. It's commonly used on the walls of sound stages and under big machines and stuff. But yeah its QUIET, even with no sound deadening on the roof, doors, or much of the rear panels.

It's just about as quiet as my truck was before the cage. I can talk on my phone at speed fine now.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost24copy.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost25copy.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost26copy.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc238/EricAnderson03/cage%20work/RollCagePost27copy.jpg

Thats the route Im going... but hoooly crap its expensive! $5 a (Lin) ft!? Find anything more reasonable? Whered you buy yours from?
:eek:

edit: I just saw its a 54" wide strip.. I figured it was 2' or so haha... Ill let yall know how it goes!

[ZJARCHER]

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadener/spectrum.php?category=121#tab1

Im going to try this stuff... Along with some heat-reducing stuff made by lizard skin. Should I do the heat-reducing stuff first, then the Spectrum Sludge? I'll be carpeting and doing some enclosures similar to Simon...

[X9 Racer]

Has anybody tried a sand or bb-filled sock inside the rollcage? Bikes use them inside the handlebars to kill vibration, maybe it would help with vibration induced noise too.

I wouldn't use it myself, just imagine what the customs paranoids will think if they x-ray the rollcage when I cross the border! :eek:

[SimonSays]

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadener/spectrum.php?category=121#tab1

Im going to try this stuff... Along with some heat-reducing stuff made by lizard skin. Should I do the heat-reducing stuff first, then the Spectrum Sludge? I'll be carpeting and doing some enclosures similar to Simon...

that stuff looks like a really expensive hurculiner.. http://www.herculiner.com/

the headliner is done and its really helped out with the noise and heat...

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/080720_103517.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/Simon5ay5/prerunner/080719_235020.jpg

[charlie_brown]

Originally Posted by ZJARCHER
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound...egory=121#tab1

Im going to try this stuff... Along with some heat-reducing stuff made by lizard skin. Should I do the heat-reducing stuff first, then the Spectrum Sludge? I'll be carpeting and doing some enclosures similar to Simon

i used the lizard skin in my truck. i spryed it 3 years ago and it has held up great. when it drys it is lighter then anything out there and it is fire rated (un like many other things out there).

[Diode663]

I dont know if its been suggested before but if you go to this website and scroll down to the ensolite, I do believe you will find what you are looking for.
http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
This stuff was a major factor in removing almost all road noise from my tin can wrx.

[diirk]

For those interested in foaming their cages, alot of the street car guys are using Handi Foam II-22 with good results, and I believe it's non-toxic once it's cured.
[url=http://www.foamkitsolutions.com/products/977/10/default.aspx[/url]
http://www.foamkitsolutions.com/data/catalog/II-12-small1.JPG

As for sound deadening, I had very good luck with the B-Quiet Extreme in my 69 Camaro. It went from "earplugs required at all times" to "I can talk with the windows down". I covered the entire interior with it, including the roof, firewall, doors, and a custom built rear panel between the backseat and the trunk.