5-1600 wiring diagram

[01_el_tiburon]

i will be posting a complete 1600 wiring diagram, just one question if somebody can help me..

Whats the correct cable thickness to use, 12 ? 14 ? 10 ?

thx

omar

[prerunner1499]

i will be posting a complete 1600 wiring diagram, just one question if somebody can help me..

Whats the correct cable thickness to use, 12 ? 14 ? 10 ?

thx

omar


I had to rewired my whole car after the "tweaker wiring job" that it came with had a bad melt down. Luckily it was only alot of smoke and no fire :-0
I used 10ga for the mains from the battery, to stater etc,, and the jumpers, then 12 for everything else. You could get away with 14 but it seemed to me that all the connections I had seemed fit better and more solid with 12 and 10.
I bought that "buggy wiring kit" and just used the colored wires and then designed my own system with the glass bulb type fuses and a fuse box. It was cheaper buying that then a whole bunch of spools of diff colored wire. They are also pretty close the the length needed.
Its a heck of alot cleaner now than that spaghetti wiring job it had.
I also got a heat gun and a bunch of shrink tubing.. I got very good at it.

Oh ya,, and thanks for taking the time to do a wiring daigram for a race specific car. I seem to see alot of people wondering about wiring these days.

[Ryan_P]

Are you doing a wiring diagram similar to the one shown below? It's a good starter diagram for the "wiring-impared".

I am curious to see what you can come up with, it's always nice to have a starting point.

-Ryan

[01_el_tiburon]

Are you doing a wiring diagram similar to the one shown below? It's a good starter diagram for the "wiring-impared".

I am curious to see what you can come up with, it's always nice to have a starting point.

-Ryan
im not an engineer or electrician, but i did my lat 2 wiring jobs and came out perfect... I will set up a complete 1600 diagram including, tach, pumper, oil fan, backup fuel pump, amber lights, etc......

it wont look as nice, but i hope it will be readable, the last diagram i did was horrible but funcional, didi it on paper, will use a computer now...

omar
p.s. ill post it this week

[Superfab]

If you run 8 ga from alt to starter and on to the dash you've got plenty of poop to run everything you need. Run 14 ga for tail,brake,ign. and 12 ga for each front light. Buy quality wire ends that have a brazed seam (Interstate battery, Dell City, or Waytek Wire) and quality crimpers and you won't have failures. Interstate sells wire for arount $5 per 100 foot ( Enough for a couple cars). Use dual wall heat shrink (it has glue on the inside) and it will stay put and seal out moisture. Wiring isn't real hard..just time consuming to do a real nice job.

[01_el_tiburon]

Its ugly but it works, chose thge worst program to do it with. Its a word documet.

I need somebody to check it for me, ive got some doubts:

1.- Oil Pressure and oil pressure idiot light use independent wiring to oil pressure sender ?

2- From Batery to alternator or Battery to starter then alternator, any or both ?

3.- We have run this copper plate (made out of copper tubing, cut and flattened)right over the thermal breakers to feed em all, and never had any trouble, but, what other alternatives are there that involve thermal breakers ?

4.- power switch is feeding 7 things (amber light, gauges, idiot light, tach) Can it overheat ?

5.- ITS UGLY AND HARD ON THE EYES, CAN SOMEBODY FIX IT ?

6.- Whats this ???? ".....Use dual wall heat shrink (it has glue on the inside) and it will stay put and seal out moisture.." you wrap the cabling ?


eL TIBURON


cant post the word document its too big ...caca....ill keep trying

[01_el_tiburon]

Here it is

[baja_driver]

Here it is

looks pretty good, fuel pump and oil fan switch label cross. also make sure you have a fuse inline for the radio..would cause a serious problem direct like that..would put it on the other side of the breaker used for the intercom..maybe a dash mounted fuse for it? pretty good job tho.

[Superfab]

The oil pressure ga is on its own circuit. If you have a VDO gauge, the sender wire on the gauge goes to the g term on the sender and the idiot light goes to the WK term on the sender. Using a copper bar across the breakers is great, just put heat shrink on the exposed sections between the breakers. For the ignition I like to run a seperate starter button an use an off-on double pole switch. One side of the switch is for the Ignition, gauges, idiot lights, and tach. The other side of the switch is for the amber light. put a 15 amp breaker to the ignition side of the switch and a 10 amp to the amber light side of the switch. If the light shorts out it won't kill the ignition and the breaker will protect the wire. For lights I'd run a double pole switch for each pair of lights and put one light on each side of the switch. Both sides of the switch can be fed by the sane breaker. Fuse the radio and the intercomm seperately of each other. This way everything runs seperate of each other and one thing won't take something else out. The dual wall heat shrink has a glue in it that keep it from moving out of place. I put my wiring harness in vinyl tubing that I buy from waytek wire. It costs about $11 per hundred feet. Use a larger size like 5/8" or 3/4" to run the main harness through the car. When I split off the harness I go to 1/2" or 3/8" depending how many wires are goint through it. Put the ends into the end of the main loom so it comes out like a "Y" and put the dual wall heat shrink over the joint. If you put some silicone in the junction when you shrink it down it becomes water tight. Where the wires come out of the ends of the tubes do the same thing at the ends and it seals the ends nicely. This way the harness is protected, you don't need a ton of tie wraps and its easy to keep clean. If you have a chance look at a car wired by Pro-Wire or Thunderworks. It takes more time to do it this way but you don't end up with electrical problems later. The cost isn't much more but you won't break down brcause of wiring. BTW Run power from battery to starter to alternator. Pick up the main power for the car at the starter lug.

[Chase 2]

Superfab has suggested some great wiring harness techniques here, esp. that last bit about making the "Y" and the ends with silicone prior to shrinking.

[01_el_tiburon]

The oil pressure ga is on its own circuit. If you have a VDO gauge, the sender wire on the gauge goes to the g term on the sender and the idiot light goes to the WK term on the sender. Using a copper bar across the breakers is great, just put heat shrink on the exposed sections between the breakers. For the ignition I like to run a seperate starter button an use an off-on double pole switch. One side of the switch is for the Ignition, gauges, idiot lights, and tach. The other side of the switch is for the amber light. put a 15 amp breaker to the ignition side of the switch and a 10 amp to the amber light side of the switch. If the light shorts out it won't kill the ignition and the breaker will protect the wire. For lights I'd run a double pole switch for each pair of lights and put one light on each side of the switch. Both sides of the switch can be fed by the sane breaker. Fuse the radio and the intercomm seperately of each other. This way everything runs seperate of each other and one thing won't take something else out. The dual wall heat shrink has a glue in it that keep it from moving out of place. I put my wiring harness in vinyl tubing that I buy from waytek wire. It costs about $11 per hundred feet. Use a larger size like 5/8" or 3/4" to run the main harness through the car. When I split off the harness I go to 1/2" or 3/8" depending how many wires are goint through it. Put the ends into the end of the main loom so it comes out like a "Y" and put the dual wall heat shrink over the joint. If you put some silicone in the junction when you shrink it down it becomes water tight. Where the wires come out of the ends of the tubes do the same thing at the ends and it seals the ends nicely. This way the harness is protected, you don't need a ton of tie wraps and its easy to keep clean. If you have a chance look at a car wired by Pro-Wire or Thunderworks. It takes more time to do it this way but you don't end up with electrical problems later. The cost isn't much more but you won't break down brcause of wiring. BTW Run power from battery to starter to alternator. Pick up the main power for the car at the starter lug.


Thanks for the info. Just one more question, isnt putting all your cables inside shrink wrap make it difficult to identify when you do have trouble ..? I think id rather strap it....

[ShaneR]

Thanks for the info. Just one more question, isnt putting all your cables inside shrink wrap make it difficult to identify when you do have trouble ..? I think id rather strap it....

Lots of people use this thinking of if it is inside loom I can't fix it, but if it is done correctly with breakers or fuses you will never melt a wire or chaff a wire. Look at a factory car wiring that lasts the life of the car, all inside loom and tired very tight and you never have a problem. With a nice loomed and connected correctly wire harness you can remove the entire harness and put it back the same way everytime with out any problems!

[67BAJA]

I kick ***** at Visio (Microsoft program), I can punch out Tribun's diagram and add all changes easy if somebody hasn't already started to draw one.

Let me know, don't want to waste time.

[01_el_tiburon]

I kick ***** at Visio (Microsoft program), I can punch out Tribun's diagram and add all changes easy if somebody hasn't already started to draw one.

Let me know, don't want to waste time.

heres the corrected version, without the two pole switches...

i corrected....

1.- changed labels that were crossed
2.- cancelled direct feed fro mbattery to alternator, routed through the starter.
3.- added 3 direct feeds for lights. From each thermal relay (on the copper side), to the light relays.

seems thats all for it to be functional....

[TROPHYSEDAN]

Weres the regulater for the generater. just kidding. Thanks for the drawing. Getting started on the wiring for the kids 11 car.

[gwm]

BTW Run power from battery to starter to alternator. Pick up the main power for the car at the starter lug.

I agree with pretty much everything else, and I know this is accepted theory, but why? I may be missing something obvious but what difference does it make if you come off the battery, the starter lug, or a relay lug if you have a Ford type starter set-up?

[Superfab]

If the battery is in the front of the car you can pick up power there. Usually we use the starter lug because it keeps you from having a ton of stuff at the battery terminal. For a race car it doesn't hurt to have a battery cut-off switch either in the system. Makes it easier to shut power off to do any repairs. Just make sure you buy one rated for higher amps than the total draw of your system plus a little extra. And never turn it off with the engine running. It takes a different one that also kills the alt circuit if you want to do that.

[01_el_tiburon]

I agree with pretty much everything else, and I know this is accepted theory, but why? I may be missing something obvious but what difference does it make if you come off the battery, the starter lug, or a relay lug if you have a Ford type starter set-up?

I ran it direct from battery to relay switches and the starter is wired indepenently...