4wd beams

[John_Bitting]

I need to install my new beams on my bronco.. Do the ball joints just push in?? Are they pressed in?? How much work is it to take my spindles, hubs off?? I have never did this before and need any advice I can get, I will be putting longer radius arms on at the same time, what tools will I need to buy? Thanks in advance..

[jeff]

Ok... What tools do ya have?

You'll need a lug wrench for the wheels... the brake calipers remove with basic hand tools... and a hammer.

To remove the hubs and spindle you'll need a spindle nut socket - you can either buy one or rent/borrow one from a parts store like Autozone... Or if you ask nice you can borrow mine. :)

The spindle comes off only after all the guts are removed... the spindle itself can be removed after 6 nuts are pulled. All of that stuff is easy and if you've got the tools handy can be done in 15 minutes easy if you know what you are doing.

The radius arms you have probably have new mounts... taking the old mounts off requires the removal of those damn rivets. Either drill them out, grind them flush, or use an air chisel to cut em' off.

I forget what size the rearward radius arm nut is, I think it's 1" - don't quote me on that. Same socket should pull the bolt from both the top and bottom of the beam that mounts the radius arm, including the lower coilspring retaining washer/cup.

Do ya need a hand? Buy me a 6-pack and I'm there.

Aloha

[John_Bitting]

I will buy you a case if you could help me. I have a good amount of tools now and could buy whatever else I might need.. What about balljoints.. Do the push in, press in, bolt in? Should I buy new ones, the ones on the bronco now are only a couple of months old. Thanks Jeff...

[jeff]

Yep, the ball-joints press in and out. You can rent the press from Autozone for $100 bucks I think... It's basically just a threaded press system that includes different cups. The $100 bucks is basically a security deposit, they refund it when you take it back undamaged. You'll need a pickle-fork to separate them. A torque wrench that goes up to 180lbs minimum to re-torque the spindle nuts. And that socket needs to be an 1-1/8th I think... not 1" And you'll also need a big ol' honkin 1-5/16" for the upper ball joint nut. A big C-clamp is handy to compress the brake piston to ease removal.

I'm sure I could come up with a step by step with all the tools and tricks required. I've got a mid-term on Thursday that I'm studying for tomorrow. When did you plan on starting the project?

Aloha

[Kritter]

I'll bring you my grinder tomorrow, it pretty heavy duty...you'll need it. Drilling those rivets out is like watching grass grow and the air chisel almost made me deaf. The ball joint deal is up to you, but they will need to be pressed out. This link might give you a little idea of the front end. Its an older version, but same idea.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://bronco2mudder.com/balljoints.htm>http://bronco2mudder.com/balljoints.htm</A>

When you doing this? I am always game to drink beer and wrench...the only way to go.


Kris

If you wanted a steak you shouldn't have went to McDonald's!

[DougM]

you'll need a floor jack and a set of jackstands as well. 2 floor jacks would be even better( to lower that heavy diff)
pressing the balljoints in/out can be done with the hand press. it looks like a giant C-clamp. Autozone(like someone stated) has them for rent. Depending on mileage of your old ones you may want to get some new ones with zerk (grease) fittings in them?
You'll need to pull the guts from your old front end as well I think(R&P/axles)

JB,
You havent posted any pics of the broncos new seats or anything? Maybe when your done with the front?
Are you doing shock mounts or anything at the same time or later?

good luck and be safe. A service manual wouldnt be a bad idea either.

[John_Bitting]

Doug, project bronco is about to take off.. I have almost everything I need for it sitting on the floor in my garage... 3.0 King Coilovers for the front, Deaver rear Springs. King Rear shocks, new modified beams, autofab 2 link kit. The beards are mounted and looking nice, I got the new two peice motorola race radio, its mounted and bitchin. I pick up a new Sparco steering wheel for it today. The only thing I have left to buy are rims and radius arms, glassworks fenders. The bronco will go in the shop to get built as soon as I mount the new beams. Hopefully next weekend. ...Hows the explorer coming?

[DougM]

John,
thats great about your Bronco. It will be nice to see when its all finished.
All projects on my end are on hold until I sell a car.
no $$ dinero for anything. Its gonna be a thin Xmas if I can't sell one of the vehicles.
NOTHING is selling in SD right now (even with 0% financing, the Ford guys are all mulling about outside the dealer by my house!)
I picked a piss poor time to try and sell a vehicle. MY BAD

[John_Bitting]

That is weird that cars are not selling. Houses are in my area in fact I sold my house yesterday in just under a week.. Not bad.. :-)

[DougM]

Houses are selling , they just aren't getting over what they are worth and are on the market longer( at least in N. San Diego) thats great you sold it in a day.

[John_Bitting]

I just picked up today a new Sparco steering wheel, and Sparco 5 point harnesses for Project Bronco. They make some really bitchin stuff.. I got a cool tour of the facility too..

[rdc]

John- I've always heard "cut and turn" when referring to modifying TTB's. Are the beams cut and turned or is just the bottom ball joint hole moved further out? Anyone care to elaborate? BTW who did your beams?Thanks. Richard

[Kritter]

It is actually "cut and turned" or flipped whichever diction you prefer. I think he got the beams from Camburg.

Kris

If you wanted a steak you shouldn't have went to McDonald's!

[John_Bitting]

I have also heard cut and turned but have no idea what it means. I bought some stock arms and had Camburg move the lower balljoint out.. I did not extend them or trusset them.. That is last on my list..

[Motorider]

Hay John, I can't remember if your bronco is 4x or not, but I have a ranger that I'm building that is 4x and was wondering if I could put f-150 I beams on (with them being wider than the stock ones I have now), reconnect my four wheel drive and make it work. Anybody know?

thanks
Patrick

[singlehanded]

Ive heard that you have to change over the steering. It will probably end up costing more in the long run. Has anybody done this? Is it worth it?

local

[scott]

Wow John, that thing should look like Jimmy Smiths Old Pre-runner Bronco when your done with it. The Ball joints are pressed in. They have a spline look to them ????

[rdc]

My understanding about what "cut-and-turned" means is that you take the stock beams, then cut them and reweld the lower half at an angle. I may understand that wrong - If you visit off-road.com look for an article about the Zimmerman's 1993 Explorer. They cut-and-turned their own beams. On the steering issue - I'm looking to swap a fullsize TTB into my '93 Explorer, can you guys tell me more about the steering work that must be done?

David - No one of consequence.

[jarreptolson]

when i took my dana 35 to camburg to have modified all they did was extend the lower ball joint mount about an inch. I have heard that this varies from shop to shop....with the extended lower joint i found that i have more clearence than when compared to some of my friends rangers whos beams were modified by mcneil and autofab.

[sirhk100]

Jerrettolson,

Are you on the stock TTB mounts or are you using drop down brackets? How high are you lifted over stock? Any pictures of what they did?

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

[jarreptolson]

i am using the stock mounting points with about 5 and 1/2" of lift, i will work on getting you a picture....do you just want the lower ball joint or the whole beam?

[sirhk100]

I'm eventually (like after the 1st of the year) going to be getting my beams reworked. I want to keep my 6"s of lift but get back to stock mounting points instead of the drop down brackets. At the same time I'll brace the stock mounts. I don't really understand how they did your beams. I've always seen them actually cut them just inboard of where they mount/pivot at the frame and reangle them there. Is that not what they did with yours?

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

[John_Bitting]

You want to avoid doing them at the mount if you want to keep your driveline straight.. If you extend them at the mount then the driveline gets pushed toward the wheel... Make sense?

[sirhk100]

Yeah, that makes sense but who widens them anywhere else. Perry McNeil, AutoFab, and Baja Concepts I think all rework them there and widen them there. I've always thought that wouldn't be the ideal place to do it but that's where they do it. I always thought just outside the coilbucket inbetween the bucket and the end of the beam would be the best spot.
John,
How were your beams reworked? They weren't widened right?

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

[sirhk100]

Okay, I went back and read the whole post again. It sounds like they cut your beam just inboard of the knuckle and put for simplicities sake, a wedge in there to keep the camber in line. Is that right? What did they charge you to do that?

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

[Jerry Zaiden]

http://www.camburg.com/images/ExlporerCustom/DriversideIbeam.jpg

In this picture you can see the correct way to extend the I-beams. We do it out towards the end of the I beam.
They are lengthend outside of the bolt that holds the coilspring/Radiusarm.

[jarreptolson]

they didnt widen the beams at all just realigned them. Pushing the lower ball joint mount outwards while keeping the top mount in the stock location. i will try to include a picture, if it doesnt work just leave an email address and i will send it. It was 400 for the modification....a bit too much if you ask me...if i had the know how and the tools (jig, welder, etc) i would have done it myself, but i guess thats what i was paying for.

[sirhk100]

The picture turned out fine. I'm assuming that piece extended up the beam.

Jerry,
How much does something like that go for? Just the beam modification. Is it cheaper if I bring the beams into you or do you need them on the vehicle? I'm guessing on the vehicle so you can do it according to the ride height.

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

[DougM]

This is similar to the reason they bend 2WD I- Beams. Its a caster /camber thing.. although w/o getting longer radius arms your wheels will be pulled rearward towards the fender edge. no bueno.

[Jerry Zaiden]

http://www.camburg.com/images/4x4rangerbeam.jpg

This is a pic of the mig welded 4x4 Ranger or Explorer I beam. They are $1600 for the pair.

[Jerry Zaiden]

Here is another pic, click on the attachment.

[sirhk100]

Man Jerry, those things look like art work but they're functional too. Pictures like that make me want to just wait and get that. ON the Radius arms, you said you have one set with a cross member. Is that the same setup that is in the pictures of the Explorer on the Camburg webpage?

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

[Jerry Zaiden]

Not quite the same but it is the same Box design.

[jarreptolson]

Jerry,
Does the 1600 include the extention of the half shafts?

[John_Bitting]

I just called 4wheel parts and the manual hubs are only $86 for both.. That is pretty good they are made by Warn.. I have autohubs now and just for parts at my dealer friends cost is $187 dollars to replace the internals of the one that I broke in lucerne. I think I am switching to manual.. The conversion kit is $45...

[sirhk100]

I'm running the Mile Marker Manuals on mine which are supposedly Identicle to the Warns, so much that you can rebuild one with the others parts. I think I got mine with the spindal socket and everything for about $140. Easy to install, and work flawlessly!!

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

[John_Bitting]

What are peoples thoughts on Ball Joints?? Since I will be buying new ones should I buy stock Ford product or is there an aftermarket balljoint that is stronger that is compareable in price.. No I dont want to buy Henry or Cone.. I dont have that type of budget.. But I know for my Chevy Moog had a real nice affordable unit that was beefier then stock... Thanks in advance..

[GMS739]

JOHN THE BALL JOINTS THAT I USE ON MY FORD RANGER 4X4 7s truck ARE FROM PEPBOY I AM STILL RUNNING THE BALLJOINTS THAT I USED AT THE BAJA 2000 LAST YEAR AND THEY ARE STILL TITE. I BOUHT SOME MOOG BALLJOINTS AND THEY WERE REALY SLOPPY AND EXPENSIVE THE ONES FROM PEPBOY WERE LIKE $20.00 EACH AND I HAVENT HAD A PROBLEMEVEN AFTER BARSTOW.

[Ryno]

John-

When I was working in a shop, we always put Moog chassis parts on. ALWAYS. We rarely had problems, unless the owner didn't grease them regularly, etc. I put them on my Chevy, they do way better than stock, but the IFS still wears them out in about 18 months.

Ryno

Build it like a Rhino, and Leave it be.

[Motorider]

So Jerry, is there something that us cheepo guys can do with our I beams that won't set us back 1600, or do we just have to bite the bullet. Also do you extend the driveshaft for those or do we have to get that done? Also I wanted to know if anybody knew if you can replace the ranger 4x I beams with F-150 4x I beams and just reinstall the 4x?

Patrick

[jeff]

I think Kragen has those hubs for $80 bucks plus tax - I was in there the other day getting some wheel grease and thought I saw the Premium hubs for that price. Those guys sell Edelbrock stuff now too - it's sorta weird to walk into Kragen and see actual performance stuff - guess I don't get out much eh?
The hub conversion kit, aka the spindle nut conversion kit, is usually cheaper if you buy the Milemarker version - don't know why - I've never heard of a spindle nut fatigue failure so I don't imagine there is much of a quality difference. Saving a few bucks on the conversion kit ain't no big deal anyways. You can however do a conversion kit from autopart store stock - all you need is the inner and outer spindle nuts, along with the lock-ring. I bought the inner and outer nuts the other day to replace a busted one and just to be safe on the other, I think the tab was $13 and change for both. No idea how much the lock-ring is, I bought one a year ago and I think it was $4.00 bucks. And no, I didn't bust the old nuts - the previous owner appears to have installed the outer nut in the inner position and the inner in the outer position - this sheared off the locating pin and cracked the nut.

These part numbers are for the DORMAN line
Inner Nut = 615-120
Outer Nut = 615-121
Lock Ring = 618-041

On a side note... I keep an Excel database printout of all the part numbers necessary to "get me home" in my own Bronco. As I replace stuff I keep track of it - brake pads, bearings, u-joints, seals, gaskets, plugs, bulbs, you name it. Makes it a hell of a lot easier to find parts when the time comes.

Aloha

[scott]

John- I got Moog for my F-150 for about $105 for upper and lowers at cost. Their pretty beefy.

[scott]

John the $105 is for all 4........ Didn't want to confuse you.

[rdc]

Upper and lower - I guess you're referring to A-arms. He's looking at TTB's - I-beams. Unless I got off-track and am crazy (which is totally possible)

David - No one of consequence.

[Skyler]

TTB's have any upper and a lower just like a-arms

[Skyler]

I am a retard! TTB's have upper and lower ball joints, just like a-arms. Sorry about being illiterate I have been in the desert too long this weekend

[rdc]

Oh! Ok, for some reason I thought he was talking about upper and lower I-beams or something and it confused the hell outta me. You guys were talking about balljoints....

...david, you dumbass, read the whole thread before you open you mouth...

David - No one of consequence.