Electric Fuel Pump

[class7s]

At the last MORE race, my mallory 110 electric fuel pump started over heating and I had to pull over an let it cool off before it would give me another 5 to 10 minutes and then repeat. Are these best for the drags or will last in our sport. Also would be interested in what other people are running in thier cars.

[mexracer10]

we use a little faucet pump the little square pumps, and we have a big pump inline with that one for back up. we have a 22r with dual side draft mikunies with 5 lbs. of pressure. This has worked well for us.

[ZTFab]

Where is your pump mounted?.....the closer to the fuel cell, the better.....
electric pumps hate to pull fuel, they function much better when they push.....also, make sure it is mounted somewhere with adequate ventilation to help cool it down while your driving and that is isn't near any other heat sources....

I've always had luck with Barry Grant fuel pumps, they aren't the cheapest as far as pricing, but they incorporate a bypass return line for unneeded fuel to go back to the cell......having a return line helps keep the pump motor cooler and also helped on our 22R motor with a vapor lock issue it use to have when running in warmer weather....

Hope this helps....jm2c

[class7s]

The pump is little far way than I prefer but the is where the PO it. It is definatley pulling that far away. I was thinking about a pair of the carter 4070s mounted neat the fuel cell and run them in parallel with one as backup. Do you feel they will work?



Where is your pump mounted?.....the closer to the fuel cell, the better.....
electric pumps hate to pull fuel, they function much better when they push.....also, make sure it is mounted somewhere with adequate ventilation to help cool it down while your driving and that is isn't near any other heat sources....

I've always had luck with Barry Grant fuel pumps, they aren't the cheapest as far as pricing, but they incorporate a bypass return line for unneeded fuel to go back to the cell......having a return line helps keep the pump motor cooler and also helped on our 22R motor with a vapor lock issue it use to have when running in warmer weather....

Hope this helps....jm2c

[ZTFab]

The pump is little far way than I prefer but the is where the PO it. It is definatley pulling that far away. I was thinking about a pair of the carter 4070s mounted neat the fuel cell and run them in parallel with one as backup. Do you feel they will work?


A backup system of any kind is always the best choice in our type of racing.....options, options, options......so as far as two pumps go, it's a great idea....

As far as the 4070's go, I don't have any experience with them and I'm sure they're a good product, just realize that the Carter pump is about 2-3 psi and 30+ gph LESS than your old mallory was.....carbs love lower psi with higher gph to allow the float bowls to remain full but not overcome the spring pressure in the needle and seat....

I don't know what kind of carbs you are running.....mikunis, webers???....either way you should match the required pressure/gph rating of your carbs to whatever pump(s) you choose....

Either way, IMO, it's always your best bet to get a pump with a return system on it to allow the excess fuel to return to the tank and help cool everythinig down...

[motoxscott]

We've had really good luck with Bosch fuel pumps, they are a little pricey though. Another option is a fuel pump Hella Inc. distributes. We sell them for around $170 and havent had any problems with them. I know people that have had them in their trucks for years.

Like others have said, they like to push fuel more than they like to pull it.

- Scott @ Camburg Engineering

[ntsqd]

I'd be really tempted to run an inline pump meant for EFI (~15 psi for a TBI pump, 40-ish for a TPI). They'll flow enough fuel for at least 300-350 HP which ought to be enough for a 22R/22RE. Put the by-pass up at the regulator, and put that as close to the carb as is reasonably possible.

FWIW the pump (a Bosch, I think) used on EFI Rangers is mounted just about under the driver's feet and slightly fwd. Was on the Only one I've worked on anyway. Runs counter to everything "known" about electric pumps, and still works OK. Not that I'm saying to mount it there, just saying that that pump is more forgiving than most.

[class7s]

The engone is a stage 1 LC 22R with twin Mikuni carbs. The carter is about 40 less than the Mallory, but I may go the route of rthe small Barry Grant with the returns. I will just have to figure out where to put the reyurn line in my fuel cell


A backup system of any kind is always the best choice in our type of racing.....options, options, options......so as far as two pumps go, it's a great idea....

As far as the 4070's go, I don't have any experience with them and I'm sure they're a good product, just realize that the Carter pump is about 2-3 psi and 30+ gph LESS than your old mallory was.....carbs love lower psi with higher gph to allow the float bowls to remain full but not overcome the spring pressure in the needle and seat....

I don't know what kind of carbs you are running.....mikunis, webers???....either way you should match the required pressure/gph rating of your carbs to whatever pump(s) you choose....

Either way, IMO, it's always your best bet to get a pump with a return system on it to allow the excess fuel to return to the tank and help cool everythinig down...

[ZTFab]

If you choose a BG pump, you might consider the BG2200RR.....it flows a rated 220 gph at 15 psi, incorporates an externally adjustable bypass and is designed for continous duty.....all you need is a pressure reg. to adjust inlet pressure to the carbs.....and make sure you don't spend extra money on a regulator with a bypass...the pump already has one....hope this info helps.....

You could also consider one of the pumps that Scott spoke of and mount it the way Thom suggested.....seems like either way would help solve your problem....

One last thing....did you check to make sure that there isn't anything in the bottom of your cell that could've been picked up by the pump causing the vanes to jam and overheat? I ask only because we found rocks....yes I said rocks...in the bottom of our cell and it caused us all kinds of probs....don't ask me how they got there.....

I'd check for deteriorated foam or other debris.....and make sure you have a filter....a GOOD filter....between the cell and the pump....jm2c....

[class7s]

Thanks I will check all of that, I still am going to run a redundant system of some kind. So the whole fuel system will basically get removed and reviewed


If you choose a BG pump, you might consider the BG2200RR.....it flows a rated 220 gph at 15 psi, incorporates an externally adjustable bypass and is designed for continous duty.....all you need is a pressure reg. to adjust inlet pressure to the carbs.....and make sure you don't spend extra money on a regulator with a bypass...the pump already has one....hope this info helps.....

You could also consider one of the pumps that Scott spoke of and mount it the way Thom suggested.....seems like either way would help solve your problem....

One last thing....did you check to make sure that there isn't anything in the bottom of your cell that could've been picked up by the pump causing the vanes to jam and overheat? I ask only because we found rocks....yes I said rocks...in the bottom of our cell and it caused us all kinds of probs....don't ask me how they got there.....

I'd check for deteriorated foam or other debris.....and make sure you have a filter....a GOOD filter....between the cell and the pump....jm2c....

[ZTFab]

Good luck....let us know how it goes.... :D

[ntsqd]

The point of putting the by-pass clear up at the regulator is that now the whole supply line is under much higher pressure than if the by-pass is back at the pump. The advantage to this is that it will be a LOT harder to vapor lock the system.

This is the Filter (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=55979&catalogId=10001&classNum=219&subdeptNum=68&storeNum=6) that two of my three off road vehicles have on them. The bracket for the third is IP on my fab bench. Wish I'd known about this Filter (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=221724&catalogId=10001&classNum=219&subdeptNum=68&storeNum=6) as I'd have prefered to use it.

[ZTFab]

The point of putting the by-pass clear up at the regulator is that now the whole supply line is under much higher pressure than if the by-pass is back at the pump. The advantage to this is that it will be a LOT harder to vapor lock the system.



While I haven't had any problems with the systems that I've used with a bypass at the pump, there is a lot of truth to what you are saying Thom and I think that ideally the bypass should be as close to the carb as possible to allow for more fuel to be circulated and cooled down if the pumps used are not higher psi (12-15) and gph......

I still feel comfortable plumbing the systems the way I have in the past due to the fact that the pumps I use are bypassed(regulated) to 15 psi at their rated gph(usually 220) which allows the entire supply line to the regulator that is mounted at the carbs to remain at a high pressure while maintaining a high flow rate to keep the float bowls full, not allowing the fuel to boil and cause vapor lock.......either that or I've just been lucky :D