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Project1500
March 6th, 2005, 20:17
I have a 93' Toyota pickup with the 22re motor and am having troubles getting it to run right.

During the warm up cycle, the revs fluctuate up and down when at a stop or out of gear (idle speed). It only does this while its warming up and goes away when it warms up completly. It also has a slight miss at idle all the time.

I also have a pic of a wire with a connector on the end that isnt plugged into anything shown in red. It looks like the part thats missing connects to the top of the valve cover circled in yellow. Is this supposed to not connect to anything?

ZTFab
March 7th, 2005, 10:13
Does your truck have A/C?

DuffcoDan
March 7th, 2005, 10:55
the wires you are referring to don't pertain to anything.

I had the temp sender switch (green one on front of intake manifold) go out on a truck with similar symptons.

is the check engine light on? if so, you need to pull a code from computer. you just jump the wire on diagnostic plug (TE1 to E1) and then read the number of flashing lights on dash. you may need a good toyota manual to interpret these codes.

other things to check are the AFAM (dust or water in the electronic portion) and TPS.

ZTFab
March 7th, 2005, 14:42
Dan's right....those wires should be for the a/c vsv for the idle-up solenoid when the a/c is turned on,...nothing to do with your prob...

I'd check the things that Dan suggested first as they are the easiest....also make sure that the intake hose from the air flow meter to the throttle body is good and tight and doesn't have any cracks in the bellows of the tube where it bends....I've replaced many intake tubes that were cracked...

If you do have any engine codes, post them and I can tell what they are...I've got a Factory manual....

Hope this helps....

Project1500
March 7th, 2005, 16:32
My truck has A/C.

My check engine light isnt on. The throttle body has no leaks and the intake tube isnt cracked.

Dan I dont see the temp sender switch on the intake manifold??? I see two black sensors plugs on front of the intake manifold about an inch apart from eachother.

Whats the AFAM? I will check the throttle position sensor later tonight when I get a chance.

DuffcoDan
March 8th, 2005, 10:20
we need an engine code to help you narrow down the problem.

the next step is to wiggle all the wiring to check for loose connection, plug, ground wire, or sensor.

the EFI temp sender is th one on the right of the two temp senders, usually green plug (maybe it is dirty and you can't tell).

the AFAM is the part the air fiter hooks up to. inside this part you'll find some delicate electronic circuitry. it doesn't like vibration, dust, or water. on a toyota truck this takes the place of the mass air flow sensor used on other vehicles. that's great advice on checking to make sure the intake hoses are tight and sealing.

the EFI system on these trucks require signals from the o2 sensors, AFAM, temp sender, and TPS for them to run properly.

ZTFab
March 8th, 2005, 12:49
One more thing you can check on the AFAM....on the right side, next to the black plastic cover( the electronics that Dan is talking about are under this) is a recessed screw...

It should have a cover over the top of it but by now, it most likely doesn't....this screw is for the air bypass circuit that allows air into the intake at idle....a lot of people adjust this screw and it can cause poor idling....

Turning the screw in should decrease the amount of air and turning it out will increase the amount, i.e., turn it in for lower rpm and out for higher....

Again, I'd check the things that Dan has also suggested as they are easy checks and definent causes of problems...

DuffcoDan
March 9th, 2005, 09:18
this tech article is helpful with interpreting the 22re computer codes.

Diagnositc Trouble Codes and Possible Causes (www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html)

Project1500
March 11th, 2005, 00:25
I think it the VAFM (Vane Air Flow Meter) like both you said it might be. I had the cover off and was trying to figure it out. I think I bumped something and made it worse. The check engine light is now on. I did the test with the DLC and it reads theres a short with the VAFM.

I was wondering If anyone has a picture or can take a picture of the VAFM with the cover off. I searched all over the internet but cant get a good picture. If not Ill mess with it some more later and see if I cant fix it, if not I guess ill get a new one.

Ive changed the coolant temp sender (it was green like you said after I cleaned it), changed the tstat, radiator cap, flushed the system and filled it since its also having a problem with overheating. Once I get this VAFM fixed Ill go from there and hopefully it will be fixed. I have two trucks and both dont run!!

yotatech
March 11th, 2005, 23:55
I recomend not messing with the vafm. There are no adjustment specs for it. The cover for the air adjustment screw is there for a reason. The part new from the dealer is about 500 bucks so be careful what you mess with

Project1500
May 5th, 2005, 20:39
Its been a while but I figured out what the problem was...It was the TPS sensor. I replaced it and it ran really good until...I blew the head gasket last week. Then 2 days ago I blew the intake manifold gasket on my Chevy!! Im driving a Ford now and Im going to see if I can blow it up too.

Thanks for the help on the yota!