spindle question

[dezerts10]

I have an s10 with fabtech spidles for now and i have my stock spindles still to. here is what i am thinking i am going to do.i have uniballs for the upper and lower controll arms and had to drill the ball joint holes out to accept a 3/4 inch bolt. i want to sleeve this hole with a piece of chromoly tubing because in the past i left it alittle loose and it made a bit of an indention in the cast part of the upright. i guess my question is i will need a piece of 1 inch .120 wall and that will give me an ID of the tubing approx .760 right will this be to loose?

Gregg

[curt]

The reason it left an "indentation" was the the boss in the spindle isn't thick enough compared to the rest of the assembly you are bolting to it, it was designed to work with a tapered bolt that won't come loose under most conditions. No matter what you do to make it a perfect fit, it will woggle out that hole when it moves around slightly unless you make the hole longer, even a couple of inches would make a difference. Depending on your room, weld a piece of 1-1/4 x .250 wall chromoloy or DOM to the spindle upright on the side that doesn't have the uniball. By welding it on the side that doesn't have the uniball, you won't change your pivot point geometry. It could be a little smaller or larger depending on the space you have and what bolt length's are available to you. Make sure you grease that bolt when you install or removal will be a PITA.

This also works if you need to play with your camber at ride height, if you need less neg camber, a little bung material between the spindle and the uniball will usually make the tire less neg camber (| instead of \) if you do this, make sure you cycle the travel to make sure of your clearances and overall camber...Curt

[hoeker]

i would recommend you look close at that spindle before you rip a 1" hole through it! i've never seen a cast spindle with enough meat to put that big hole in there without costing more strength than you're trying to add.

on my CORR stocker i machined a counterbore 1/8" into the spindle that the hi-mis spacer located into. this eliminate the shear point on the bolt and made the whole assembly stronger.

good luck

[dezerts10]

thanks for the replys guy ill see what i can do.

ross do you have a pick of the spindle i got an idea as to what your saying but not 100%

Gregg

[Justin]

greg im pretty sure hes sayin he countersunk the spacer a 1/8 of an inch into the spindle

[dezerts10]

coutner sunk to me means a tappered (concaved) entry into a holw like this \ / which would leave an angle to put the mis alighnmet spacer on i know thats not correct right? what i assume you are getting as is you milled out a cup into the spindle with like an endmill or flatbottmw drill bit 1/8th inch deep so the mis alighnment spacer has a flat area to sit on. am i correct?

Gregg

[ntsqd]

Correct term is "Spotface."

[curt]

No concave it's more like |_| that would be the thickness of a penny or so deep. The bore needs to be within a few thousandths on the od of the misalignment spacer on the bolt side. It's an exellent idea and better looking than the stubs I was talking about but you would need a milling machine to do it accurately enough...Curt

[dezerts10]

i got it covered got a mill at work to play with. i think i understand what everyone is getting at.

Gregg

[AZmiik]

You could do it with the correct counter bore and a drill press.

Mike